Sweet Santander

In order to celebrate those two Thanksgivings, I spent a weekend visiting my best friend in Santander. I now understand why she would leave Lugo for such a place.

Endless stairs

 Santander is a coastal city which isn't very big. But it does have its hills--and also outdoor escalators, moving sidewalks, and a funicular to help you on your way up. And my friend's apartment has simply marvelous views: not only because it's a top floor at the top of the hill, but you get sea views from both sides of it. Well, one is ¨the bay¨ and the other is the coast, but they´re both water and absolutely dreamy on a clear day!

On Saturday we took a train trip to the small Cantabrian town of Liérganes. One thing I truly envy about the rest of Northern Spain (Asturias, Cantabria and Basque Country) is that their towns are all well connected by local trains. Why does Galicia (Lugo specifically) have to be so isolated?! Agh. Anyways, the town was pretty, right next to some mountains. But I also have the pleasure of seeing mountains in the distance from my high school every day so...the awe has worn off. It was nice to spend an hour or two walking around though.

Ye Olde Bridge, Liérganes

We seem to have mostly grown out of the Spanish party-til-dawn lifestyle, and didn't hit the town too hard. One night we went to a Nirvana tribute band concert. They were much better than I expected; the singer sounded just like Kurt! I definitely enjoyed myself rocking out to the soundtrack of my high school years...along with a bunch of Spanish high schoolers and 30-somethings. And after preparing and celebrating Thanksgiving, there was no way I was leaving the house. But no matter, Santander, I shall return for you!

Also in the park: carved trunks

On Sunday it was unbelievably warm for being practically December. We trekked to a lighthouse along the coast. Not a hike, but a nice little walk. On the way we observed a lot of beach football matches going on. They were wise to take advantage of the weather! Later we went to a royal park between beaches: Real Sitio de la Magdalena. There they have penguins and seals in areas right next to shore. And in the wooded area there is the royal family's old vacation dwelling. A delightful park for a stroll or picnic, for sure. Then we watched the sun set at a beach bar terrace. A pleasant end to an equally pleasant weekend.

Thanksgiving

Once again, the American tradition of Thanksgiving was brought to the masses. By masses I mean about 20 people total, since I celebrated the holiday twice (which is more than I would in the USA). The first round was here in Lugo. Since my American best friend has left me for coastal Santander, I was planning on skipping the day of, and just celebrating with her on the weekend in Santander. My darling Spanish roommate, however, had other plans and insisted we prepare dinner here. There ended up being 13 of us! We used two tables for the first time ever. Fani and I made everything, and most guests brought a bottle of wine...which ended up being a lot. The menu was typical except once again, chickens instead of turkey. And Fani even made lactose- and gluten-free pumpkin pie! Not bad, for a Spaniard. ;) In attendance were mostly Spaniards, as well as a Brazilian and a pair of Englishmen. Once again we did our tradition of holding hands and saying what we´re thankful for.

Desserts! 

In Santander I only worked as Lauren's sous chef. This time was a bit more international with guests from Poland, Germany, and Africa (I realize it's a continent, not a country, but they didn't specify). Lauren prepared very expensive turkey breast, so hopefully our unAmerican friends savored it! And for dessert...basically everyone brought something. There was brazo gitano (Spanish), a Polish dessert similar to apple pie, quesada (Cantabrian), and Lauren's sweet potato pie. As Lauren and I have said before, some day we´ll plan a huge feast and charge a small entrance fee. But for now, friends who are lucky enough to receive an invite get to come taste an American tradition de balde.

Magostos and Chestnuts Galore

Oh snap! It's been a while since I've written, but the nice part of that is it's because I've been too busy livin' la vida gallega. And since the weather is now cold and the holiday decorations are coming up, I better hurry up and write about Magosto, Galician's autumnal celebration.

A whopper of a chestnut

Magosto is a chestnut-based festa celebrated mostly in Galicia (Spain's #1 chestnut producer), and also other regions of Northern Spain. It's usually held in early November and is a time to gather the community together and have roasted chestnuts. My first two years I didn't really enjoy them, but now I'm a fan. Estoume galeguizando! This year I attended not one, not two, but THREE Magostos!

The first was sponsored by the University´s Galician club: Liga Estudantil Galega, so you know it was legit. Groups of students chatted around a fire where they gave out chestnuts (castañas) roasted in a contraption similar to the metal cages used for bingo. And for snacks/dinner you could buy traditional goods like empanada and chorizo. Then there was the entertainment--a Galician band with tambourines, bagpipes, and drums. What fun! It's about time I learn how to dance like a Galician though!

The second Magosto was in a plaza in the center, sponsored by the bars and some community organizations. Again, they had free chestnuts, and the weather was nice enough to grab a beer and stand outside socializing. A lot of the foreigners took part in this one; always a jolly time.

A day in the life...

My third Magosto was at school, of course. As usual, the teachers had a lunch of chorizos and boiled potatoes beforehand. And despite having a dessert of empanada de manzana (similar to apple pie) with the teachers, I just couldn't resist trying 3 more desserts homemade by my students. It would be rude to deny them since they put them in my hand so enthusiastically! A lot of the castañas were rotten, but no matter. We played traditional games, like tug-of-war, trying to fish wine bottles, and...alcohol-free pong? American import, I guess! Then they played the broom dance, which I still don't get. Couples ¨dance¨ and have to get rid of a broom, but in reality they just end up running around holding hands tossing the broom at other pairs haha. I also got to lead the conga line for a few seconds. Groovy times!