Another Weekend, Another Festival: Vendaval Fest

¨Ugh, not another festival!¨ Those words actually came out of my mouth. But I'm taking them back! While I had been longing to just stay at home for the weekend, we already had plans. The Vendaval Fest of rock music in Ribadeo. It turned out to be a well-balanced weekend away at a well-organized music festival in its third year. 

The festival itself was really cheap (around 20€ for 2 days of concerts!) and the camping was practically free at just 2€ per person for 2 nights. As one of our camp neighbors observed, you can barely go to a regular campground for that price and have hot showers. Throw in the added bonus of music and it's a steal! Part of the fun of music festivals is camping out among other attendees who evidently share the same taste in music. I can't always tell if this is a good thing or bad thing, being in close quarters. But in this case, we set up our tent next to a friendly couple and ended up chatting with them quite a bit.

Indiano in Ribadeo

Ribadeo is just a great town to walk around and enjoy the atmosphere. It has tons of bars and shops (which open on Sundays!) and lots of lovely indiano architecture. But on a sunny, Friday holiday during a music fest? That combination meant a lot of people were milling around. At lunchtime in the center of town, a very upbeat DJ spun songs in Galician as part of the festival's opening celebrations. The 25th of July is Galician National Day, after all, making it a 3-day weekend. 

After taking in the pre-festival fun, we went the cheap route and had sandwiches at our tent and rested up before the concerts around 7. I felt bad for the openers because hardly anyone was around for the first concert. Cuarta Xusta is a Galician band whose violin sets it apart from other rock groups. They were followed by a Galician grunge band (Sandford Music Factory) that sings in English. We had seen them at Resurrection Fest last year. Next was a big-name Spanish punk band which no doubt attracted a lot of people to the festival: Lendakaris Muertos. Their spazzy singer jumped into the moshpit several times despite being in his 50s. After their set, the crowd died down quite a bit, leaving us plenty of room at the front. Perfect, because someone had been listening to Rienda Suelta's CD on repeat in preparation for their concert. Afterwards, we turned in at the very responsible time of 1:30 AM, missing the last act which surely drew a good amount of fans.  

Saturday we got up relatively early, but thanks to noise throughout the night, I was still sleepy. A trip to the beach for a morning nap was in order! We weren't sure how sandy the beaches of Ribadeo would be, so we got in the car, crossed the bridge to Asturias, and landed on Arnao Beach. Wide and pretty, with rock formations in the middle. The water was way too cold to go in for me. Instead I opted for walking around the rock formations where we spotted a few little crabs, some tiny fish, and even a little shrimp. Then a little nap under the sun. 

Playa Arnao

We couldn't spend all day at the beach, though, because around 1PM the day's sesión vermú was underway. I was tempted to blow it off, but I'm glad we didn't! Mekanika Rolling Band is just that...a rolling band with guitar, drums, trombone, and saxophone. Playing energetic hits throughout Ribadeo as more and more people joined in the party. We had a blast singing along and dancing around with them. 

After lunch and a nap, by 7 it was day 2 of concerts. Saturday opened with a classic rock-n-roll band from Asturias. They were followed by two bands emulating a similar time in the early 70s (they sure dressed the part), the main difference being the second was led by a woman with an amazing voice. Curiously, all of these Spanish bands sung in English. Then came an electro-rock band from Galicia that sung in Spanish. And lastly (for us) Reincidentes, a classic in Spanish punk rock. After jumping around with them, it was time for bed! We missed the last ska band, but that's ok. And being the second night, I think people were just too pooped to be up all night chatting like the night before. Thank goodness; I slept all night long. 

To conclude: rock + camping + beach = way better than staying home! 

Llanes in Low Season

What to do when your best friend lives in Basque Country and you in Galicia? Meet up in the middle in good old Asturies. In April we met up in Llanes, despite the fact that all of us in our group had already been there before. It's a nice town with lots of charming architecture and just enough nightlife to keep you entertained. We did notice that the place has tons of bars, assumedly in the summer it is swarmed with tourists coming to visit nearby beaches. 

A lot of the architecture in Llanes is in the indiano style, typical of northern Galicia too. These ornate houses were built by returned emigrants who had made a fortune abroad. The well-preserved specimen below was right next to a completely dilapidated house. Should have taken its picture too for comparison. It wouldn't be an indiano house without a palm tree to pay homage to the land where said fortune was made-- in South or Central America.

As we only stayed one night, we didn't do a whole lot aside from walk around. Luckily it was great weather, so we were glad to be able to have coffees and drinks outside. When in Asturies, one must drink sidra, so that we did. I'm really never sure about the protocol, as you are supposed to share cups, but maybe not everyone in the group is keen to. Plus I've been told that it's rude to pour it yourself, as it suggests that the waiter/waitress pouring sidra is not attentive enough to your table's thirst. They generally come around asking if you'd like some more every 5-10 minutes. And it would appear that not all servers are equally skilled at sidra pouring. No surprise there, as you have to lift the bottle over your head and hold your hand with the glass at waist-level. Other sidrerías have graduated to giving out small pouring machines with your bottle of sidra. They aerate the sidra just as well or even better than if it were poured from up high, but it's just not the same. More convenient though, that's for sure. And no awkwardness of ¨Should I ask for a pour or just do it myself?¨either.

European charm

The next morning we went to nearby village and beach Celoriu. Coincidentally enough, we had both already been there, too. I had gone camping there in one of my first summers living in Galicia. But apparently it didn't make it to the blog back then. The reason for going this time around was for the menfolk to go fishing off the dock. We checked in on them shortly after they had settled in and that's when one of our companions caught his first ever fish! Too small to keep though. After a few hours, they fished something decent and we were able to have salpicón (a seafood cocktail of fish,  diced raw onions, carrots and peppers dressed with oil and vinegar) for dinner once home, not even 36 hours after we had first set off. 

 

Gusty day for fishing

Top 20 Galician Festivals 🎉

Good weather is here to stay in Galicia. And with that, a celebration is in order! While Spain as a whole is known for partying and celebrations, Galicia in particular has an endless list of festivals. Whether you're fond of food, eager for a blast from the past, or wanting to embrace local culture, Galicia has got a festival for everyone! I've decided to compile the best here. Some I've been to, and some are still on my to-do list. Check 'em out!

Historical:

• Feira Franca, Pontevedra. In September, get transported back to the Middle Ages. The city gets decked out for the day, but I remember being disappointed that not everyone was dressed up. (My experience)
  
• Arde Lucus, Lugo. Kick off summer with a wildly popular clash of Roman and Celtic (Castrexo) cultures. It lasts the whole weekend and has many events such as a Roman circus, reenactments, and interactive ceremonies like Celtic baptisms. (My experience)
  
• Assault on the Castle, Vimianzo. Another Medieval Fest, but specifically around the episode which took place at this castle in 1468. In that year there was an irmandiño rebellion where they sieged the castle. Nowadays they do a reenactment where all can participate. Maybe next year will be the year I finally make it there.
  
• Ribadeo Indiano, Ribadeo. This event celebrates indianos, those Galician emigrants to Latin America lucky enough to return home with a fortune at the beginning of the 20th century. The dress code for this event is white, preferably in early 20th century style. Ribadeo -- and the northern coastal region of A Mariña in general-- has many examples of indiana architecture: ornate mansions from the turn of the century. So it must make for a lovely backdrop. Some day!
• Romaría Vikinga, Catoira. Once again off to the Middle Ages, but with a Viking twist. At this festivity they reenact the arrival of the Vikings to Galicia, who at the time were fought off. Now there are only two towers in ruins on the riverside where merrymakers welcome and party with the vikings, rather than clash with them.
  
• Festa da Istoria, Ribadavia. Around for over 30 years, this might be Galicia's original Medieval Fair. If you're looking to be transported back to the Middle Ages, you really have options in Galicia.

 

Roman fort in Arde Lucus

Gastronomic:

• Albariño Festival, Cambados. People swarm to this small capital of white wine, which keeps the crowds entertained at night with concerts. I've been and would certainly go again.
  
• Ribeiro Wine Festival, Ribadavia. Perhaps Galicia's less famous white wine, Ribeiro is celebrated in late spring. A special touch is the wine tasting in a historical building. (My experience)
  
• Wine Festival, Chantada. Always in late winter/early spring, this mostly-red-with-a-dash-of-white wine festival kicks off the year in enology. The downside on its timing is that often the weather does not cooperate. (My experience)
  
• San Simón Cheese Fest, Vilalba. Haven't been yet, but as one of my favorite types of cheese over here, it's certainly on my list! The day's events include cheese tasting and music. (My experience)
• Seafood Festival, O Grove. Razor clams, cockles, barnacles, or crab. Pick your pleasure at this event which celebrates all things seafood on the shores of the Rías Baixas. Plus, no Galician festival is complete without some concerts at night. I must admit I've never been because not only am I not a huge fan of seafood, but it always coincides with San Froilán in October.  
  
• Flat Onion Fest, Miño. In Galicia, every food is deserving of its own festival. Case in point, the flat onion. Not that I'd necessarily recommend going out of your way to attend. Unless you are crazy for this pungent veggie, that is. But it just goes to show that they'll make a festival out of anything here. For example, the following foods also boast their own festival here in Galicia: bread, sea lamprey, hake, Spanish omelette, pepper, tuna, ham, eel, the list goes on.

Onions, onions everywhere

 

Cultural:

• Cans Film Fest, Cans. If movies are more your thing, head to this tiny, tiny village between Vigo and Portugal. It's a pun on Cannes, because the village name is similar. Audiences gather to watch short films in barns, garages, anywhere! And in the evening there are concerts for your entertainment. I've been twice and would go back in a heartbeat, but there are only so many weekends in a year. ;)
  

 

Film screening over pile of wood in Cans

 

Music

• Resurrection Fest, Viveiro. Masses of metal/rock fans from all over Europe--and maybe even the world!-- flock to pack the town of Viveiro. It's a weekend full of dozens of concerts, always with some internationally-acclaimed headliners. This year will be my first time going, so stay tuned! (My experience)
• International Celtic Music Fest, Ortigueira. I've never been, but have heard many tales of the fun environment found at this festival. They bring in Celtic bands from all over the world for a summer weekend of Celtic fun.
   

 Miscellaneous

• Carrilanas (Soap Box Derby), Esteiro. I'm dying to get to this one. It's a summer soap box derby by day with big-name concerts by night! 
• Rapa das Bestas, Sabucedo and others. Hundreds of wild horses are corralled annually for a haircut and de-worming. After the job is done, a celebration ensues.
• Dorna Boat Fest, Ribeira. This longstanding festival on the coast celebrates their traditional fishing boat (dorna), a key part of life in this town for ages. It has mushroomed from a one-day gathering when it started in the late 1940s to its current form: nearly a week of activities, games, concerts, and fun for groups dressed in matching t-shirts. It even has an Icarus competition where people try to make flying contraptions, as well as a Soap Box Derby.
  
• Water Festival, Vilagarcía de Arousa. In the middle of August, this celebration is all about water to cool you down. I've never had the pleasure of attending, but from what you can see on videos online, looks like a riot! I have heard that it is more geared towards the ¨youth¨ than the middle-aged and older. 
• Corpus Christi, various. Several towns in Galicia celebrate Corpus Christi in a similar way: by designing giant ¨rugs¨ made out of petals in the streets. One year I went and watched them work at night in Redondela. It was cool, but not much of a ¨festival¨ if you are looking for a wild time.
  

 

Preparing the petal murals in Redondela

And I didn't even get into patron saint celebrations, which can be a massive event in Galician cities. Not to mention special days celebrated throughout Galicia, such as Magosto or Midsummer. So if you're planning a trip to Galicia, why not schedule your visit around a fab festival that piques your interest?  You surely won't be disappointed. Galicians know how to have a good time!

Solos en una Isla Griega: Kimolos Top 3

OK, it's time to wrap this Greece trip recap up, before a whole year has passed since we went. Last but not least, was the island of Kimolos. On the whole, our two-week journey was ordered from more hectic to more relaxed. We started off with big-city Athens with lots to see, then coastal towns/cities that were a little slower-paced but still quite busy, followed by the small island of Milos, and lastly the tiny island of Kimolos. Kimolos makes Milos look big and bustling in comparison. 

Apparently, part of Chorio's castle

The ferry ride between the two islands is barely half an hour. Although a smattering of houses can be found near the port and on other parts of the island, Kimolos really only has one village, Chorio. And it's so charming! All painted white with blue accents. Even the stones on the ground were outlined in white paint. (The island's official website has tons of info in English, FYI)

On quiet island time, our schedule was as follows: mornings at the beach, lunch, nap, stroll around town in the mild evenings, catch a glimpse of the sunset, dinner on our patio, bed, repeat.

 

We strayed from our routine on three occasions: 

1. Hike to Skiadi. A must see in Kimolos. The short hike is worth it to see this giant mushroom rock. And frankly, it was nice to do something other than go to the beach. The trail is well-indicated, and for the hour there we were totally alone amongst a barren backdrop. On the way back, we ran into another couple who asked in Greek, ¨How far away is Skiadi?¨ At least that's what I thought they said, so I answered in English. She seemed satisfied enough with my reply. Anyways, you don't have to be a geologist to appreciate this very unique rock formation, nor do you have to be an expert trekker to get there. 

Skiadi!

2. Movie Night. One of the most serendipitous events on our trip was a little outdoor film screening. We had heard about it from some hitchhikers we picked up and decided to check it out for ourselves. As the sun was going down, the water was just warm enough to go in. Crossing ¨sunset dip¨ off my Greek bucket list. That's certainly something you can't do in Galicia...the water would be just too frigid! From the beach we could see a path of tiki torches. So picturesque! We sat on some boulders furthest from the screen to make a quick exit. More than the movie we were just interested in the set up. It was in English (fine for me) but with Greek subtitles (not so fine for my travel companion). Quite amazing that this tiny island has a cultural society that puts on fun activities. Good on you, Kimolos! 

 

Movie Night with the Kimolistes

3. Fancy Restaurant. From our home base, we could see a building on a hill with a wraparound porch beautifully lit at night. Turns out this is one of Kimolos' fancier restaurants. On our last night we treated ourselves to dinner there, switching things up from our usual spread of simple Greek tapas on our little patio. The ambiance of the place was pleasant, and the pasta was pretty good. This was our big ¨night on the town¨ in Kimolos.

Much about Milos

After Carnival there has been a lull in activities. A Lenten lull, if you will. While we had a weirdly hot taste of spring in early February, it's now back to rain, rain, rain. Cold rain. In the mountains it's cold enough to snow, but not here. And since I've had a lot of time on my hands indoors, I've been reminiscing about sunnier, hotter days. Time to finish up the recap of Greece last summer. Better late than never!

This is going to get long...

Cave in Milos

Nafplio, Greece

For a complete change of pace, we swapped quiet Galaxidi for bustling Nafplio, a town perfectly suited for a ¨Mediterranean Getaway.¨ Although they are both on the coast, it's impossible to compare these two Greek towns since their size and popularity are just so different. In Nafplio, tourism was certainly booming, as evidenced by the sheer number of bars and restaurants. And every terraza had a section with couches, something I had never seen before but definitely approve of for all vacation destinations. And whereas in Galaxidi we didn't hear much English, in Nafplio I caught tons of American accents. I wonder if it's thanks to Rick Steves promoting the town on his show.

Bourtzi Castle in background

Nafplio really has style, I think encapsulating an American's typical idea of Europe. You can see the clear Venetian influences in the architecture. And with the Old Town being almost exclusively pedestrian only, it was great to walk around the maze-like cobblestone streets in the evening. In late morning or early afternoon not so much, as it was just too hot! There is also a promenade along the coastline that was delightful to walk along when the sun was low. (Well, we couldn't walk along all of it, as part was closed due to potential rockslides.) From there you can see a Venetian castle on a tiny island just a stone's throw from Nafplio's harbor.

We also were big on watching the sunsets in Nafplio. Our first evening there, we watched the sun dip beyond the hills curled up on a couch on a bar's patio. Another night we drove to a long beach to get a good view. It was funny to me, right before sunset, not everyone was packing up. In fact, some people were just getting there! The water was still warm enough to go in, something out of the question in Galicia.

Speaking of beaches, one morning we walked to the local beach right up and over a hill next to the Old Town. Paradise Found! There, the snack bar was playing the same 1950s beachy and relaxing music we had heard at the Yacht Club in Galaxidi. Maybe it's a beachcomber radio station! The dreamy music paired with crystalline waters and being surrounded by cliffs: amazing. The only downside was the beach was made of rocks which is not so comfortable to set your towel on. We only stayed for part of the morning anyways. So much to do, so much to see! 

Arvanitia Beach

Galixidi, Greece: A Serene Seaside Escape

Balcony view of Galaxidi

After visiting Athens' must-see sites, we rented a car and headed north to experience two very different Greek vacation destinations: Galaxidi and Nafplio. Our first overnight stop was sleepy Galaxidi. We arrived around lunchtime, when the heat was just about unbearable. We stayed at a charmingly-decorated hotel slightly elevated and on the outskirts, with a small balcony which provided a delightful view overlooking the orange rooftops of the old town. That little balcony would make for a lovely place for dinner or a nightcap, but in the afternoon it was just too hot. As we wandered around looking for sustenance, most places were literally shuttered. It reminded me of some Galician villages with decrepit buildings that are now all but deserted. We ended up settling on one restaurant on the corner of the harbor, thinking it was our only hope. Afterwards, we realized that was just the beginning, and that there were plenty of other dining options following it along towards the open seas. (Well, not quite open, as Galaxidi looks on to a bay.)

Clearly the Galixidi-ans respect the siesta time just as their Mediterranean counterparts do in Spain. And for good reason! But once it began to cool off (as in, down to 80ºF), the place livened up a bit. Not much, but a bit. As we were out getting a feel for the town, we came across a sort of yacht club (to call it something). It was a bar/restaurant that had umbrellas and deck chairs available for rent right on its own little pier. And turns out that after 6 PM they were free! Coincidentally, we asked at about 6:15. With this in mind, we returned other days around that time, and certainly weren't the only ones showing up for free deck chair time. It felt like one more little luxury on our trip. Isto si que é lúa de mel! I myself didn't partake, but from the deck chair zone you could hop right off into the sea. Our first Greek Mediterranean Sea experience.

Luxury!

 

As a whole, I enjoyed Galaxidi for the ultra relaxed vibes. Zero crowds, and it seemed like most people there were Greek (along with quite a few French). Added to the narrow streets and retro signs, it really felt like a place from times gone by, like we were walking around on a movie set in Greece in the 1950s. On a nighttime stroll, we saw groups of teenagers hanging out, which reminded me of Miño and other Galician seaside towns. I bet the same families come back year after year and the kids end up making groups of friends. If not for the fashion, that group may have contained its own Danny & Sandy with their old-timey summer lovin'.  Greece's own Grease, if you will. ;)

When it came time for us to head to our next destination, there was a slight hiccup. As we trudged to the car loaded with baggage, lo and behold the formerly empty street where we had parked was now a bustling market street. Unbeknownst to us, the little lines painted perpendicularly on the left side of the road in fact designated market stalls. Now it all makes sense. And of course market day fell on the morning of our departure! So between hand gestures and basic English, we asked the nearest fruit-seller what time they packed it up. Luckily, we only had an hour to wait, so we spent it at a nearby snack bar we had been to the night before. In no time we were able to get into our car and on the road. Profuse Ευχαριστώ (one of the most important words we picked up: thank you!) That was one of our more memorable travel interactions with the locals.

To the Ends of the Earth

This weekend our travels took us to Fisterra, on the Costa da Morte. Fisterra is named such because the Romans thought it was the end of the earth. Finis terrae. Obviously that is not the case, as we know there is a whole other set of continents in the distance, not to mention it's not even the westernest part of the continent. Nowadays Fisterra is the optional ending point for the Camiño de Santiago, the walk which officially ends in Santiago de Compostela to see the remains of the apostle St. James in the 800-year-old Cathedral. Some pilgrims choose to continue to Fisterra, and maybe burn their boots while they're at it. By the way, today is a holiday throughout Galicia: the feast day of St. James. 

You can't get to the ends of the Earth without stopping first in Corcubión. A small, historic town on the coast, I didn't expect much of it, since it's not usually mentioned when discussing cute little fishing villages in Galicia. So I was pleasantly surprised when we stopped there to get some fresh seafood. It just so happens that they were hosting the Medieval Market of the Costa da Morte. Serendipity! We had time to kill before getting to Fisterra so we walked around. Although I didn't buy anything, I was giddy about the variety of stands set up. Usually at fairs it's all the same. Several stalls of leather (belts, wallets, etc); a handful dedicated to cheap jewelry; maybe one of wooden toys, but the same style at every single fair. But this was different. There was a guy carving wood into decorative pieces. There was more than one stand with all sorts of Lego characters. Another with some handmade soaps. One full of spices/medicinal herbs for all sorts of ailments. An Arabic-themed tea stall with sitting area. A pig roast! There were actors roaming around in Medieval garb, including two dressed as ¨street sweepers¨ with big baskets to collect rubbish, and who also did balancing acts. If we ever go back, we'll have to bring our Medieval dress to fit in with the corcubioneses. 

Medieval entertainment in Corcubión

Festive in Fisterra?

Once at our final destination of Fisterra, I was charmed by the amount of small alleys above the port area. I had been before my first year in Galicia, but we had only really gone to the lighthouse and cape. Last time, I don't think we even visited the village. Our loss! It was nice to wander around the alleys which sometimes were dead ends. And although the town is a popular destination among foreigners and pilgrims, it wasn't packed either. Especially considering the date.  Guess everyone was in Santiago de Compostela celebrating.

As far as beaches go, on this occasion we visited two. The first was smaller and I enjoyed it because it had plenty of ever-increasing shade thanks to an adjacent pine forest. I didn't like the other one as much because there was absolutely no shade. The view might have been ¨better¨ though, as it was open to the sea, with nothing in front. On both occasions the water was frigid! Clearly I'm spoiled by warmer Galician and Mediterranean beaches! At the open-sea beach, swimming was prohibited due to undercurrents. 

Mediterranean vibes, Galicia

Mallorcan Noms

This year we got to visit not one but two Balearic Islands. The benefits of Galician emigration for me: friends and cuñados on Mediterranean isles. And because it's fresher in my mind: Mallorca! This was my third visit to the biggest Balearic Island. We went for an extended weekend in July, meaning our beach days coincided with some of the busiest days. But we got there early and didn't stick around for the afternoon. The temperature was ideal, too; not scorching hot, and the water was warm. The only thing we are not used to here in Galicia was the foot-burning sand. Everyone sought relief in the crystalline waters. 

One unexpected thing I love about Palma de Mallorca (a city of less than 500,000 people) is the food variety. As Americans, we are so used to having all sorts of ethnic cuisines at our fingertips! Here in Galicia (more specifically, Lugo), not so much. The extent of ¨international dining¨ aside from the Chinese restaurant and a handful of sushi places (a recent development in the past 5 years) is kebab, which is considered Turkish fast food and can be found all over Spain, and maybe all over Europe. So on our visit we took advantage of all the tastes Mallorca has to offer, both local and foreign. First night ramen in an authentic, cheap place in what could be called Asiatown. Another night sushi. Another night Indian. By ordering out we got to enjoy the marvelous terraza at my cuñado's place, lovely but unbearable during the day. On one beach day we also had a Mallorcan specialty: pa amb oli. The three words are said together as if one word, rhyming with stromboli. ¨Bread with oil,¨ it's available with innumerable topping combinations, kind of like a pizza. You can get them in specific bar/restaurants called pambolerías. Yummy and light, perfect for Mallorcan heat!

And when surrounded by so many guiris (foreigners, like myself) in a hot Spanish climate, nothing hits the spot like a sangría! I rarely have them here, but it just felt so right. So summery. So touristy. Our hosts also shared a pitcher with me, so it can't be only for tourists. At one place a white sangría (kind of an oxymoron, when you think about it, since sangría comes from sangre, because of its bloodred hue) did not disappoint! It was filled with festive fruits! Now that was a vacation drink!

Stay tuned for more Balearic travels...in Menorca! 

 

Back for Summer Vacation!

I'm back! Just in time for summer vacation. I didn't really go anywhere, just busy working my usual stint teaching English classes in addition to working on an international conference held here in Galicia. But more on that later. Now I'm officially on vacation and hope to catch up on the past few months' of blogging. Time to start churning out the entries!

To kick off summer vacation, like many good lugueses we went to Miño to hit the beach. Despite it being July, the temperature maxed out at 75ºF and there were lots of cloudy patches. Plus the wind on the beach made it hard to bear at times. Mini sandstorms! That probably explains why even on a Sunday there were few people on the beach. The others must have gotten the memo that nowadays early July is hardly beach weather. Regardless, there was just enough sun to dive in a few times throughout the weekend. At times it was more pleasant in the water than out of it. Plus we had plenty of room to spread out and play beach sports.

Almost too rich
when not accompanied
by churros.

But Sunday morning it was definitely too cloudy to haul our gear to the beach. So what is one to do in a beach town when the beach is out of the question? First we had a very vacation-y breakfast of chocolate con churros. Yummo! And as you may know, in Spain the typical hot chocolate is thickkk. I always get a kick out of resting the spoon on the surface, just to prove how thick it really is. Next stop: the weekly fair to buy underwear! Afterwards we went on a new sensory walking trail from one beach along the train tracks, through a forest, ending in a quiet residential area called Ponte do Porco. 

Ponte do Porco: the pig's bridge. Time for another Galician legend! In the 15th century lived a servant named Roxín Roxal. He fell in love with his master's daughter, Tareixa. The feeling was mutual, but clearly impossible, so the lord, Nuno Freire de Andrade--nicknamed ¨O Mao¨ (the bad), so imagine-- sent Roxín Roxal away. He gave him a golden dagger and a few coins to get by. Time passed, Roxín Roxal disappeared, Tareixa got married. Then a huge wild boar began to torment the lands of Nuno Freire de Andrade. Crops were ruined and even some peasants were killed by the treacherous boar. So Nuno organized a boar hunt, with his son-in-law and daughter Tareixa taking the lead. They had cornered the beast at the bridge. When suddenly, the animal lunged at them. The son-in-law-- instead of facing it with a spear-- jumped out of the way. So the boar went right for Tareixa, killing her instantly. Everyone went into mourning, especially the lord, ashamed of his yellow-bellied son-in-law. However, one morning the boar appeared dead next to the bridge with a golden dagger sticking out of it. It was then that the lord knew that he had made a mistake. His daughter would have been alive if she had married Roxín Roxal as she had wished. Social class doesn't buy bravery.

Now there is a cruceiro there, meant to look like the markers the Andrade family would have used to designate their lands. Apparently the cross over the boar represents the triumph of good over evil (boars often representing the devil in Medieval times). And fun fact: both John Adams passed through Ponte do Porco some time after the Revolutionary War.

Que Lindo O Pindo! (Pretty Pindo)

Years ago, when I had first arrived here, in one class I asked my students to name places in Galicia that I should visit. I am certain that I visited almost all of them within the first five years. But I remember one place in particular that I never got to. A Fervenza do Ézaro is a huge and famed waterfall. Being as it is, far from any ¨big city¨ as well as any beach town, it is not on bus routes. And that's mostly how I used to get around. Public transportation! Eight years later, now with my own car I was finally able to cross Ézaro off my To-See list. I weaseled it into the agenda of a long weekend getaway to the Costa da Morte that we took with another family. In summertime there isn't as much water running down, since it's dry season. I still found it fascinating the amount of different streams that came together to create one big waterfall. One big waterfall that leads right to the sea. Freshwater meets saltwater! The combination of size and seaside location makes Ézaro so well-known.

Ézaro Falls was only the first stop on our ride. The destination was the small village of O Pindo. The weather was not great-- so much rain that we were lucky to hit the beach only twice in our four and a half days there. The beach there was very deep, rather than long. The water felt tepid, probably because the outdoor temperature was cool for August. The backdrop, however, was the best part. In the back of the beach were a few colorful houses, in front of rocky hills. Just looking at it from the sea, I felt like I could be a guest in the early 1900s at an Alpine hotel promising fresh air and curative saltwater. Seriously, I'm sure that if this beach town with mountainous background existed in any other European region, it would be transformed into a flourishing resort town. But since it's Galicia-- specifically the mostly isolated Costa da Morte-- it has remained a sleepy vacation destination for few. Can't say I mind!

Pindo Scenery

Barnacles!

One key feature of these family trips to the coast is fresh seafood every day. I myself am not a huge seafood fan, but it's better than fish! Nearly every day the gang went to the local shellfish farm to see what was for sale that day. Everyone took turns preparing their own specialty shellfish dish. Except for me, who has no idea how to cook seafood. We ate rice with lobster plus different recipes featuring cockles, clams, mussels, crabs big and small, and barnacles. Barnacles for me were the most noteworthy. I know it's a delicacy here, and had seen a friend try them but had never actually tried myself. The kids and adults both offered me tips on how to eat them. You pinch off the rough outer layer and suck on the inner part, connected to the rock-hard ¨foot.¨ It was actually pretty tasty! Mostly tasted like saltwater though. 

I used one trip to buy seafood as an excuse to get a pit stop near an hórreo. The Hórreo of Lira is along with the Hórreo of nearby Carnota the purported biggest hórreo in Galicia. It's held up by 22 pairs of legs! They must have had literal tons of corn and grains to store! The tremendously long hórreo was part of the churchyard, so once again we are talking about really wealthy clergy. I say once again, because the other very long hórreo I've seen in Poio, near Pontevedra was the property of a monastery. (By the way, that one has 17 rows of legs, but is wider.)

Now that's an hórreo! Lira

Despite the uncooperative weather, I enjoyed myself in pretty O Pindo. I'm still not a converted beach bum, so it wasn't too disappointing to have so little time in the sand. Plus I got to see rocks--my favorite!--as well as a landmark that had been a long time coming. And finally I'm fully caught up with this summer's wanderings. Now I can give fall its due...

Costa Nova Stripes

No trip to Aveiro, Portugal is complete without visiting Costa Nova. Glancing at a map, Aveiro looks like it's on the coast. Actually though, there is a strip of land with beaches, then the lagoon, and then the city of Aveiro. So to get to non-lagoon beaches, you have to leave the city limits. Costa Nova is one such town with beaches. But more than its beaches, the area is known for its adorably-painted striped houses. The houses--called palheiros-- were originally storage shacks for fishermen. Most recently, they are family summer homes, cottage rentals, or cafés. We beat the rush on a Sunday morning to see them. On the downside, it was foggy and brisk that early in the morning. But by the time we had walked up and down the beachfront boulevard to see all of the cute houses as well as paid a visit to the market to see the fresh seafood, the sun was shining. The area also has the Lighthouse of Aveiro, but due to the impossibility to park, we craned our necks to peer up at it through the car window as we drove by. 

This concludes my Summer Vacation in Portugal 2021. From Aveiro we backtracked to Porto for a few days before I headed home to the USofA. But since it was my third trip to Porto, I shall end here. I'm sure I will be back to the sites and delicious, cheap food of Portugal some day soon!

Praia de Mira: A Gem of a Beach Town

So...on the Portuguese highway headed south from Guimarães, I thought it would be a good idea to call the campground I had researched to make sure they had space. Ya know, just in case. After all, the planning for this trip had been up to me. Stubbornly, I didn't need any help. As you can imagine, I wouldn't be writing about it if they had had spots available. Desperately I tried calling a few other places in my broken Galician-Portuguese mix. While looking up campsite reviews online. And trying to stay calm and not get my vacation-planning privileges revoked. But honestly, it was just as well that our plan A didn't work out. That campground had been in the middle of nowhere, whereas our final campground was amidst a natural park with lagoons. It had a pool, a snack bar, and plenty of open area to pitch a tent. It was also just a short walk from the coastal village Praia de Mira.

Praia de Mira ended up being where we spent more time than Aveiro, as originally planned. It was a bustling beach town in the summer months, and likely quite dead in the winter. You know the drill. The area was curious because to the west was a long beach, which has been a Blue Flag Beach since the honor has existed. Then there was the town, a few streets parallel with the sea. Then there was an inner lagoon. That area was full of campgrounds. It had a nice, new boardwalk amongst the wetlands. In the evening it was lit beautifully and you could stop to enjoy the calm on large swings. 

Beyond the trees: the lagoon

Sunday afternoon was a scorcher, so we spent it at the Praia (beach) of Mira. As did just about everyone else within a ten mile radius. Colorful parasols and windbreakers made for a lovely scene. As far as taking a refreshing dip in the ocean ... there was not much of that. People were congregated at the seashore, just barely wading. Nobody was out swimming or in past their knees. The lifeguards appeared to be on high alert, leading us to believe there were immense undercurrents. But aside from that, the water was painfully cold! Perhaps it's because I haven't been to the Rías Baixas in a while, and have been spoiled by warm waters in Mallorca, Miño, and Costa da Morte. But that water was icy! We determined that the only people who went up past their knees were doing their business. Walking along the beach we saw the large wooden boats used for traditional fishing in Praia de Mira. We didn't get to see them in action, but heard that without a port, returning fishermen used to use oxen to pull their boats up in the sand. 

Note the tiny coffee cup

Speaking of fresh fish, we ended up dining mostly in Praia de Mira rather than Aveiro. There were plenty of small family restaurants with patios. Hard to go wrong: the food in Portugal is super cheap and also tasty. We kept the cod coming, and I even branched out with some fish pasta. Twilight dinner was almost always accompanied by vinho verde, a white wine from Northern Portugal. And for dessert, sometimes nibbling on something sweet, sometimes sipping Beirão (Portugal's unofficial digestive, my new favorite!), sometimes drinking a tiny but potent cup of Portuguese coffee, and other times all three. 

Side note on the coffee: the regular coffee cups are a little bigger than a shotglass. Looking up some Portuguese vocabulary we had found tons of different words for coffee styles. While seeking a coffee with milk, which would be served in a small mug here in Spain, they brought said tiny coffee cup, full to the brim. Huh? I wanted it with milk. ¨I'm pretty sure that is a coffee with milk.¨ I myself am not a coffee drinker, but to prove a point I ordered a ¨plain coffee¨ in the next place. Sure enough, the ¨regular¨ without milk was barely half of the tiny coffee cup. One sip and done! But it really packs a punch. 

Under the Mallorcan Sun

My first big trip (re: plane ride) post-COVID was to the Mediterranean island of Mallorca. The first time I went to Mallorca it was December, so most coastal regions were essentially ghost towns. Despite being during COVID times, this time around in July it was noticeably livelier. As well as more international (to not say more German). As far as COVID restrictions go, after landing they stopped us three times in the airport to check where we were coming from. At the time, Galicia was a ¨safe zone¨ with very few cases. (Oh how times have changed!) Therefore we didn't have to provide vaccination records or negative tests. The week before we went, Mallorca had been all over the news in Spain, as teenagers from around the country celebrating graduation had flocked to the island en masse, with very little social distancing. The result was a huge spike in cases, and mandatory quarantine for many teens. Quarantine in very nice hotels, mind you. They received a lot of backlash for complaining about the situation. 

But I digress. We didn't go to Mallorca to party it up, but rather to relax with the fam. We rented a house with a marvelous patio, pool, and jacuzzi. The beach was less than 10 minutes away on foot. A pebbly cove. We ended up branching out to other sand beaches during our stay. I don't consider myself a beach person, but I guess after living for years in a region with over 1,000 miles of coastline, it's growing on me. In Galicia, however, they don't serve tropical cocktails on the beach! Lime and coconut concoctions tasted like vacay. Hard to resist. The Mediterranean Sea was not bathwater, as I had been promised. Certainly warmer than in Galicia though. And everywhere the water was crystalline!

The house location was perfect for the family fishers, who got up around 5 AM to head out in search of lunch. If these were hunter-gatherer times, we'd have been left starving. I was assured that in Mallorca there are ¨loads of fish to be caught.¨ After six early mornings and a few afternoons of fishing, they had only a handful of fish to show for it. Éche o que hai (it is what it is).

Fortunately there were also activities besides fishing. One day we did a high ropes course, something I haven't done in over a decade. The last time I went as a Girl Scout, I remember it being scarily high. And even though this time we went on a course for ages six and up, I still had my qualms. But actually it was quite easy, and all of the sets ended in a zipline. Plus, being up in the trees was a great way to avoid the summer heat. 

Another morning we cooled off on a visit to the Caves of Hams. Hams is mallorquín for hooks. These unique stalactites defy the laws of gravity! While the stalactites themselves grow downward, on some a small hook juts out and grows upwards again. Fascinating! The cave was all the more spectacular thanks to the colorful and dramatic lights they have set up. 

The end of summer at 💀 A Costa da Morte (the Coast of Death)

Before fall turns to winter, time to look back once again at this year's Galifornia summer. People here often compare Galicia to California (jokingly, at least) because of all the coastline and beaches. Half of Galicia's borders are with the sea. While every summer people from Galicia and parts of Spain flock to the southwest region ---the Rías Baixas-- en masse, the Costa da Morte --a little further to the north-- remains relatively unoccupied. (Perhaps because the temperature there is set at 75º F for weeks on end, whereas in the Rías Baixas it can get hot, hot, hot) This was especially true for our visit in September, when visitors from other parts of Spain had already gone back home.

In the Costa da Morte, there really is a lot to see. This time we focused on Muxía and Camariñas, leaving plenty more to be seen on future trips. My previous experience with the Costa da Morte was a visit to the end of the earth: Finisterra. Although the Romans thought it was the end of the Earth at the time, it's not even the furthest west in continental Europe. In the summer months, the last rays of sunshine can be observed from Cabo Touriñán, close to Muxía. Right next to Touriñán's lighthouse is where we spent one of the trip's sunsets. A few other groups were there for the occasion as well. But we were the only ones who came prepared with some food for a makeshift picnic. How romantic! On another night, we watched the sun dip behind Muxía and the sea from the comfort of our campsite. It's funny how an occurrence that happens literally everyday is considered ¨romantic¨ or ¨inspiring¨ when we actually take the time to acknowledge it.

Left, monument. Right, A Virxe da Barca

But back to the trip! The campground we stayed at was halfway between Muxía and Camariñas, so we took a day to explore each. Muxía is unique because it juts out as a tiny, densely-constructed peninsula. It's claim to fame, however, is a small church at the tip of said peninsula. A Virxe da Barca is built atop giant stones, rising above the sea. Legend has it that the Virgin Mary came in a stone boat to tell St James (Galicia's patron saint) to keep on spreading the word. The stones currently around the church are supposedly remnants from that holy stone boat. Very close to A Virxe da Barca is a massive stone monument, cracked in half. It recalls the oil spill of the Prestige in 2002. That was an environmental disaster that spawned the catchphrase ¨Nunca maís¨ or never again.

Even the lacemakers
wear a mask

Camariñas is another seaside town, famous for its lacemaking. We visited the Lace Museum which had some lovely patterns including some decked-out masks for the COVID-19 era. I couldn't resist shopping local and got a more subtle black mask with some simple lace on the sides for ¨formal occasions.¨ Aside from walking along the boardwalk of the Costa da Morte's biggest port, there wasn't much else to see in Camariñas. So we got in the car and headed north along the coastline.

The first stop was another lighthouse: Faro Vilán. It included a delightful little museum about lighthouses and the Costa da Morte in general. The name, evidently, comes from the amount of shipwrecks that happened along the coast in the past centuries. But what makes it so dangerous? Several factors, including the simple fact that it was on the main route between the rest of Europe and southern Spain/Portugal/the Mediterranean. More ships, more shipwrecks. The random changes in depth near the coast don't help either. Suddenly its shallower and your boat has been destroyed by the rocks. It is also said that perhaps the fierce name was used ages ago to scare off rival traders from checking out the area. Who wants to risk sailing around the Coast of Death?

Red, white, and blue (sort of)

Faro Vilán

After the lighthouse, we followed the winding dirt road to some deserted beaches. Well, actually there were a total of two people on three beaches. Continuing our journey, we some how missed the English Cemetery, where they buried the dead of a British shipwreck in 1890. One downside of the Costa da Morte being mostly unspoiled is the lack of signage. We got lost/missed the turn-off several times. They don't even have the basic signs that say ¨TOWN NAME¨ when you enter and ¨TOWN NAME¨ when you leave a place. At one point we were driving through a village but weren't even sure which it was! Good thing we kept going because our destination Camelle was the next village over.

Camelle is a parish of Camariñas with only 1,000 residents. It is noteworthy, despite its size, for the creations left by a German artist named Man. He constructed dozens of sculptures of rocks along a jetty. Unfortunately, because they are right along the sea, each year they are in worse and worse shape. Before going, they warned us that it isn't as great as it used to be. But we had no expectations to compare it to. A few curious statues are still standing. That was good enough for us. 

Remaining art by Man

On the way back to the campground we stopped at a beach. With such sunny weather on the coast, one beach a day was the minimum. Although I myself am not a huge fan, I did go in once or twice. But after the warm water in Miño spoiled me, everything else seems frigid. In the Costa da Morte we mostly stopped at beaches with few sunbathers and surrounded by forests. The campground also had a beach right below it. That was handy for the recreational fisherman who caught us something for lunch!