Mallorcan Noms

This year we got to visit not one but two Balearic Islands. The benefits of Galician emigration for me: friends and cuñados on Mediterranean isles. And because it's fresher in my mind: Mallorca! This was my third visit to the biggest Balearic Island. We went for an extended weekend in July, meaning our beach days coincided with some of the busiest days. But we got there early and didn't stick around for the afternoon. The temperature was ideal, too; not scorching hot, and the water was warm. The only thing we are not used to here in Galicia was the foot-burning sand. Everyone sought relief in the crystalline waters. 

One unexpected thing I love about Palma de Mallorca (a city of less than 500,000 people) is the food variety. As Americans, we are so used to having all sorts of ethnic cuisines at our fingertips! Here in Galicia (more specifically, Lugo), not so much. The extent of ¨international dining¨ aside from the Chinese restaurant and a handful of sushi places (a recent development in the past 5 years) is kebab, which is considered Turkish fast food and can be found all over Spain, and maybe all over Europe. So on our visit we took advantage of all the tastes Mallorca has to offer, both local and foreign. First night ramen in an authentic, cheap place in what could be called Asiatown. Another night sushi. Another night Indian. By ordering out we got to enjoy the marvelous terraza at my cuñado's place, lovely but unbearable during the day. On one beach day we also had a Mallorcan specialty: pa amb oli. The three words are said together as if one word, rhyming with stromboli. ¨Bread with oil,¨ it's available with innumerable topping combinations, kind of like a pizza. You can get them in specific bar/restaurants called pambolerías. Yummy and light, perfect for Mallorcan heat!

And when surrounded by so many guiris (foreigners, like myself) in a hot Spanish climate, nothing hits the spot like a sangría! I rarely have them here, but it just felt so right. So summery. So touristy. Our hosts also shared a pitcher with me, so it can't be only for tourists. At one place a white sangría (kind of an oxymoron, when you think about it, since sangría comes from sangre, because of its bloodred hue) did not disappoint! It was filled with festive fruits! Now that was a vacation drink!

Stay tuned for more Balearic travels...in Menorca! 

 

Under the Mallorcan Sun

My first big trip (re: plane ride) post-COVID was to the Mediterranean island of Mallorca. The first time I went to Mallorca it was December, so most coastal regions were essentially ghost towns. Despite being during COVID times, this time around in July it was noticeably livelier. As well as more international (to not say more German). As far as COVID restrictions go, after landing they stopped us three times in the airport to check where we were coming from. At the time, Galicia was a ¨safe zone¨ with very few cases. (Oh how times have changed!) Therefore we didn't have to provide vaccination records or negative tests. The week before we went, Mallorca had been all over the news in Spain, as teenagers from around the country celebrating graduation had flocked to the island en masse, with very little social distancing. The result was a huge spike in cases, and mandatory quarantine for many teens. Quarantine in very nice hotels, mind you. They received a lot of backlash for complaining about the situation. 

But I digress. We didn't go to Mallorca to party it up, but rather to relax with the fam. We rented a house with a marvelous patio, pool, and jacuzzi. The beach was less than 10 minutes away on foot. A pebbly cove. We ended up branching out to other sand beaches during our stay. I don't consider myself a beach person, but I guess after living for years in a region with over 1,000 miles of coastline, it's growing on me. In Galicia, however, they don't serve tropical cocktails on the beach! Lime and coconut concoctions tasted like vacay. Hard to resist. The Mediterranean Sea was not bathwater, as I had been promised. Certainly warmer than in Galicia though. And everywhere the water was crystalline!

The house location was perfect for the family fishers, who got up around 5 AM to head out in search of lunch. If these were hunter-gatherer times, we'd have been left starving. I was assured that in Mallorca there are ¨loads of fish to be caught.¨ After six early mornings and a few afternoons of fishing, they had only a handful of fish to show for it. Éche o que hai (it is what it is).

Fortunately there were also activities besides fishing. One day we did a high ropes course, something I haven't done in over a decade. The last time I went as a Girl Scout, I remember it being scarily high. And even though this time we went on a course for ages six and up, I still had my qualms. But actually it was quite easy, and all of the sets ended in a zipline. Plus, being up in the trees was a great way to avoid the summer heat. 

Another morning we cooled off on a visit to the Caves of Hams. Hams is mallorquín for hooks. These unique stalactites defy the laws of gravity! While the stalactites themselves grow downward, on some a small hook juts out and grows upwards again. Fascinating! The cave was all the more spectacular thanks to the colorful and dramatic lights they have set up. 

World Heritage Sites Visited in Spain

As I've been trying to be ¨productive¨ this summer for once, I've been tidying up old blog entries. Not the content so much as correcting spelling mistakes (apparently I wasn't a fan of spellcheck), fixing confusing (or just plain bad) grammar, and the like. I've also been improving and increasing the tags for posts. One of the things I've noticed reading through old entries-- aside from the fact that I use the word ¨STROLL¨ entirely too much...maybe because it's the Spanish way-- is that throughout my travels I've seen a lot of UNESCO World Heritage Sites. So I've decided to compile those I've seen in person. Not all received an entry the first time around. That's due to my own laziness, not their lack of ¨blogworthiness.¨ So now's the time to briefly summarize those places that didn't make the cut. And if I wrote about it before, the title is a link to the original post about each place.

Since there are a ton of World Heritage Sites throughout Europe, I thought I'd start off with those visited closest to home, in Spain. It's no surprise that Spain is high on the Eurocentric (four of the top five are in Europe) list of countries with the most UNESCO World Heritage Sites. As of 2019, Spain is ranked number 2 or 3, since first place is a tie between China and Italy. Again, this is only a collection of places I've personally visited. The full list of sites is available here. And because I'm not one to make a countdown list (one might say that I've picked up the Galician traits of diplomacy and indecisiveness in my years living here), they are in no particular order.

 Get ready, this is gonna get long!

Island Getaway

Ah, the glorious bridges of Spain. And by bridges, I mean ¨puentes,¨ what they call long weekends in Spain, usually when the holiday falls on a Thursday or Tuesday, and they take off four days in a row to bridge the gap. Thanks to my already spectacular schedule, the week of the Immaculate Conception and Constitution day, I only worked one day: Wednesday. So we took advantage with a little trip to Mallorca. Roundtrip tickets to the Mediterranean island were cheaper (and quicker!) than a bus to Madrid--who could say no?

Sunning myself

The first thing in Palma's airport that caught my attention was that things were in 4 languages: Spanish and Catalan (obviously), English (also pretty typical), and German. People had told me there was a huge German population on the island. I thought they were exaggerating. But since it was winter, there was less tourism in general. Which in some cases, gave places a sad, ghost-town feeling.

Castell de Bellver

We spent our first two days in the capital. In Palma we took in the typical sites, including the Cathedral, which even from kilometers away is prominent. La Loncha is the old fisher's market. Now it's simply a huge, empty space you can enter and almost feels like a cathedral. Palma's harbor is home to hundreds of boats: from dinghies with chipped paint to grandiose yachts worth hundreds of thousands of euros. A short stroll from the harbor, away from the city, is Castell de Bellver. It's a circular castle on a wooded hilltop. The open architecture makes it feel like a monastery. We also visited the Arabian Baths ruins. Unlike the Roman baths of Galicia, they are no longer functioning, but still cool to imagine. And as far as nightlife goes, we found a great, open bar that was playing the Clash all night long. Woohoo! Also we encountered so many sushi restaurants it almost seemed like a typical Mallorcan dish. Yum.

Castell de Bellver

From Palma the Serra de Tramuntana beckoned us.We quickly realized that the island itself is quite small, and we easily could have stayed in one central location and traveled to all of the island (it's all within an hour). But constantly switching lodging allowed us to see a lot of unique places. Anyways, the sierra is a World Heritage Site. This beautiful collection of hillside towns reminded me of a blend of Picos de Europa + Northern Africa + Napoli. My favorite town was charming Valdemossa, where all of the shutters are green. We caught the Port de Soller just as the sun started to go down, giving it a pink glow. Last but not least was Fornalutx, dubbed ¨the most beautiful town in Spain.¨ It's true that it was nestled in a valley, had some lovely cobblestone streets, and on the outskirts we found hens sitting in orange trees. Unfortunately, we got there after dark. In some ways it lost beauty, but in other ways it gained it.

Valdemossa

Next we headed to the north of the island. Part of Pollença doesn't have coast, but it is between two mountains. We left early enough to check out the morning market--somebody wanted to bring back Mallorcan meat (sobrasada) and yet some how we forgot to buy the typical powdered sugar treat the size of a medium pizza (ensaimada)! From there, following the winding roads of Port de Pollença, we were rewarded with some spectacular views. Nothing but sea! And also because it was the off season, the resorts were closed and we had the beachy areas to ourselves. And since it's the Mediterranean and the temperature was decent, he even took a little dip. In December!

Oh little town of Alcúdia

That night we stayed in an old monastery outside the large town, Alcúdia. The monastery was at the end of a winding road, perched atop a hill, once again with wicked views of the sea. As we rounded one of the corners while returning at night, we came across a giant goat (horns and all) just sitting in the middle of the road. In the pitch dark. Just a few nights before Krampus was to come. Was this a close encounter with Satan himself?! We will never know.

Hoppin around in Pol·lentia

Alcúdia was a nice place to walk around, even though it was quite empty. It has some remains of an ancient wall and a Renaissance one. (But again, living Galicia has spoiled me, seeing as Lugo has a Roman wall in its entirety.)  The next day we walked around the remains of the Ancient Roman city of Pol·lentia (go figure, it's in Alcúdia and not present-day Pollença). Those ruins included 3 domus, the forum, and an amphitheater. An amphitheater which one guide book pointed out is the smallest in Spain. Now that's something to be proud of! I'm all about Roman ruins though, so it was cool.

From there we headed to the east coast to the Coves del Drach. If these caves aren't a World Heritage Site, they should be. I like caves in general, but in addition to the normal cave fun, Drach has a big lagoon inside it. They make the entry cost worth it, because the tour ends in an open amphitheater within the cave, in front of the lagoon. They turn out the lights, and slowly a candle-lit boat comes a-rowin' towards the crowd with a quartet playing (in our case Christmas carols). Marvelous! After the concert, the public is able to cross the lagoon in the rowboats built for about 20. What an experience.