Around and About Allariz

Speaking of lovely Galician towns...Allariz! This Medieval town of 6,000 is a favorite for many. It only took me four years to visit, and it did not disappoint. The buildings and narrow streets are delightful, as well as the riverside walk. And Allariz doesn't feel too small. The night we went out for dinner there was plenty of ambiance. There must be at least two dozen café/bars and in the center the terraces were nearly full. Our visit also happened to coincide with the Ox Meat Tapa Contest (ox meat being the specialty in that region). So we jumped at the chance to have ox without paying an arm and a leg.

Apart from its Medieval charm, Allariz is also known for its annual international garden festival. The festival lasts spring through autumn. We went later in the season, so the props weren't in the best condition. Last year's theme was eroticism, and the 12 gardens were designed by people from Europe, South America, and Japan. Some were strange. But in general, all were a nice place to take a quiet walk.

Hollow tree near the church
and fountains

We also took a short hike nearby called Santa Mariña de Augas Santas. It started at a church with three sacred fountains. The legend says that a woman from the area resisted a Roman leader's sexual advances. So, ¨the usual¨: he ordered her execution. (Huh, sounds a lot like the present day machista attitude of ¨if I can't have you, nobody can¨...) She was in the oven, awaiting being burned to death when St. Peter appeared and rescued her through the tiny chimney. Later, however, she was decapitated and where her head bounced sprung up the fountains that nowadays are said to be sacred. From the church, a stone path leads down through the forest. The next stop is an unfinished basilica. It's hard to imagine them building a basilica back in the day, in what is now the middle of nowhere. A hole in the ground is supposedly the chimney through which the damsel escaped. You can go down into the crypt too, which is quite cool. There you can see the oven where the damsel was to be burnt. There's also a small pool.

Castro Armea

Continuing the hike, there's an `everlasting fountain´ under an old oak tree. Later, you run into a post-Roman castro: Castro Armea. You can tell it's from after the Romans because the buildings are square instead of round. This stop offers a nice view of the surroundings. Further along the trail, close to the beginning is what's left of an old Roman house. What's left is the floor. What might normally appear to be just a big, odd boulder is clearly carved into flooring. It has several levels (plus the ones underground) with stairs uniting the different terraces. This must have been quite the palace for the middle of Gallaecia!

Valadouro and Monte da Frouxeira

Valadouro

I am enamored! There's a new village on my list of favorites. Galicia is full of countryside and villages, so it's hard not to find something you like. We spent this Easter weekend on the northern coast of Lugo (A Mariña Lucense) and explored a new area: Valadouro. You could tell me this gorgeous valley was in the Pyrenees and I would believe you. Sure, the mountains are a little lower. But I daresay the wide, green valley is just as beautiful.

Part of Monte da Frouxeira

We went to Valadouro's capital, Ferreira. Walking around, it seemed like an ideal village. Not miniscule, but still just shy of being a ¨town.¨ It had around 8 bars/cafés, and they all had people in them (One of the great mysteries of this country is how there can be so many bars/cafés and yet there are people in each one!). Later we were informed that all that ambiance was mostly due to people being on vacation for Holy Week. But having the options of that many places to get a drink is enough for me. Ferreira also has a bakery and hotel! Gadzooks! In regards to the bakery, I had gotten used to the bread van driving by the country house every morning. So a real bakery with treats to choose from seems like a city advantage. When I looked up Ferreira's population online, however, I was shocked to see that only 800 people live there!

 

Giant camellia tree

The reason for our trip to this undiscovered (to me) valley was to visit a friend. His house/yard itself is awesome, right at the edge of the valley. So in his backyard starts the hill. There's also a century-old camellia tree which had left tons of petals on the ground. I suggested he get into the event business, because with that tree, in that valley, with those fields-- who wouldn't want to get married there? In his eyes, city slickers from Madrid would probably be the only customers, since ¨everyone has their own fields.¨ I must have been really showing my (sub)urban side with my amazement.

Some Galicians pointing to the encroaching Spanish troops

The peak (pun intended) of our visit was going up Frouxeira mountain. Apparently this is a very important place for Galicians. It all goes back to when Galicia was its own kingdom, centuries ago. This mountain held a key castle (Castelo da Frouxeira) which resisted Spain's army under the Catholic Kings. Perched upon the mountain it was invincible. Until a betrayal brought its downfall. Hmph! Nowadays, there are only a few bricks left from the castle, as well as steps carved into the rocks. The best part though, is the view of the entire valley of Valadouro. On the other side you can see the sea and some coastal towns. We just happened to go at sunset which made it even more magnificent. I know I'll be back to see this epic sunset again.