luns, 22 de novembro de 2021

Silleda and Surroundings

For Galicians, the town Silleda likely brings to mind two things: the oposicións-- the various exams taken en masse to obtain a government job-- or the annual mega-fair of farm products and more. This fall I went for the first reason, accompanying a test taker. When I was there, I was impressed by the facilities used for both the exams and the fair. In my opinion, it seemed more like a City of Culture than the modern buildings built at the beginning of this century on the outskirts of Santiago de Compostela and dubbed the Cidade de Cultura. The facilities in Silleda are unexpectedly massive. It makes sense though, since sometimes over a thousand people take a test at once. Aside from the huge buildings and lots of steps, there is green space crisscrossed by sidewalks with columns that are so reminiscent of a typical American college campus. I would be interested to see the place during the annual fair, brimming with all kinds of vendors and products. 

Since the exam takes up to three hours, I had plenty of time to not just go back to sleep, but also to do some exploring on my own. And now that I can drive, I wasn't limited Silleda's small town center. A 10-minute drive away is a Medieval monastery nestled in the hillside. The grand Mosteiro de Carboeiro seemed fit for Brother Cadfael. I later learned it was more likely fit for the criminals he caught, as it was later turned into a sort of monk prison. Not a prison with shackles and cells as we might imagine, but merely being isolated in the middle of nowhere was considered punishment enough for ¨bad monks.¨ It was definitely a downgrade from the luxurious life in big city monasteries such as Compostela. 

The monastery and church were eventually abandoned. While the reason was monetary, a legend cropped up related to the Ponte do Demo (the devil's bridge), a Medieval bridge crossing the river just below the monastery. The legend says that while building the monastery, the monks were sick of hardships so they made a deal with the devil. He would build them the monastery in a matter of days in exchange for all the souls that died on that Sunday. After his work was done, instead of the promised souls, the abbot went after the devil with his secret weapon, the Book of Psalms. The devil was infuriated and ashamed, but there was nothing he could do. Until, centuries later, when the Book of Psalms was moved to Toledo. The devil finally had his revenge and was able to destroy the monastery. 

Fainted Romanesque paintings
This legend explains the church's recent ruined state, but by now it is in good shape, after being restored at the beginning of this century. Such good shape that a wedding was going to be held there the day I visited. The church's roof had to be replaced, which I hadn't even realized until I saw historic photos with it missing. Inside the church there were a few Romanesque paintings still visible on the walls. You could also go down to the crypt, or up to the tower to enjoy the view. In the monastery next door, there is a small collection of historical photos of the monastery and church. Then you can ramble down to the devil's bridge where a hiking route starts. It wasn't in the cards for me, however. The short visit was the perfect length to occupy the test-taking period. 

luns, 1 de novembro de 2021

Que Lindo O Pindo! (Pretty Pindo)

Years ago, when I had first arrived here, in one class I asked my students to name places in Galicia that I should visit. I am certain that I visited almost all of them within the first five years. But I remember one place in particular that I never got to. A Fervenza do Ézaro is a huge and famed waterfall. Being as it is, far from any ¨big city¨ as well as any beach town, it is not on bus routes. And that's mostly how I used to get around. Public transportation! Eight years later, now with my own car I was finally able to cross Ézaro off my To-See list. I weaseled it into the agenda of a long weekend getaway to the Costa da Morte that we took with another family. In summertime there isn't as much water running down, since it's dry season. I still found it fascinating the amount of different streams that came together to create one big waterfall. One big waterfall that leads right to the sea. Freshwater meets saltwater! The combination of size and seaside location makes Ézaro so well-known.

Ézaro Falls was only the first stop on our ride. The destination was the small village of O Pindo. The weather was not great-- so much rain that we were lucky to hit the beach only twice in our four and a half days there. The beach there was very deep, rather than long. The water felt tepid, probably because the outdoor temperature was cool for August. The backdrop, however, was the best part. In the back of the beach were a few colorful houses, in front of rocky hills. Just looking at it from the sea, I felt like I could be a guest in the early 1900s at an Alpine hotel promising fresh air and curative saltwater. Seriously, I'm sure that if this beach town with mountainous background existed in any other European region, it would be transformed into a flourishing resort town. But since it's Galicia-- specifically the mostly isolated Costa da Morte-- it has remained a sleepy vacation destination for few. Can't say I mind!

Pindo Scenery

Barnacles!
One key feature of these family trips to the coast is fresh seafood every day. I myself am not a huge seafood fan, but it's better than fish! Nearly every day the gang went to the local shellfish farm to see what was for sale that day. Everyone took turns preparing their own specialty shellfish dish. Except for me, who has no idea how to cook seafood. We ate rice with lobster plus different recipes featuring cockles, clams, mussels, crabs big and small, and barnacles. Barnacles for me were the most noteworthy. I know it's a delicacy here, and had seen a friend try them but had never actually tried myself. The kids and adults both offered me tips on how to eat them. You pinch off the rough outer layer and suck on the inner part, connected to the rock-hard ¨foot.¨ It was actually pretty tasty! Mostly tasted like saltwater though. 

I used one trip to buy seafood as an excuse to get a pit stop near an hórreo. The Hórreo of Lira is along with the Hórreo of nearby Carnota the purported biggest hórreo in Galicia. It's held up by 22 pairs of legs! They must have had literal tons of corn and grains to store! The tremendously long hórreo was part of the churchyard, so once again we are talking about really wealthy clergy. I say once again, because the other very long hórreo I've seen in Poio, near Pontevedra was the property of a monastery. (By the way, that one has 17 rows of legs, but is wider.)

Now that's an hórreo! Lira

Despite the uncooperative weather, I enjoyed myself in pretty O Pindo. I'm still not a converted beach bum, so it wasn't too disappointing to have so little time in the sand. Plus I got to see rocks--my favorite!--as well as a landmark that had been a long time coming. And finally I'm fully caught up with this summer's wanderings. Now I can give fall its due...