Nafplio, Greece

For a complete change of pace, we swapped quiet Galaxidi for bustling Nafplio, a town perfectly suited for a ¨Mediterranean Getaway.¨ Although they are both on the coast, it's impossible to compare these two Greek towns since their size and popularity are just so different. In Nafplio, tourism was certainly booming, as evidenced by the sheer number of bars and restaurants. And every terraza had a section with couches, something I had never seen before but definitely approve of for all vacation destinations. And whereas in Galaxidi we didn't hear much English, in Nafplio I caught tons of American accents. I wonder if it's thanks to Rick Steves promoting the town on his show.

Bourtzi Castle in background

Nafplio really has style, I think encapsulating an American's typical idea of Europe. You can see the clear Venetian influences in the architecture. And with the Old Town being almost exclusively pedestrian only, it was great to walk around the maze-like cobblestone streets in the evening. In late morning or early afternoon not so much, as it was just too hot! There is also a promenade along the coastline that was delightful to walk along when the sun was low. (Well, we couldn't walk along all of it, as part was closed due to potential rockslides.) From there you can see a Venetian castle on a tiny island just a stone's throw from Nafplio's harbor.

We also were big on watching the sunsets in Nafplio. Our first evening there, we watched the sun dip beyond the hills curled up on a couch on a bar's patio. Another night we drove to a long beach to get a good view. It was funny to me, right before sunset, not everyone was packing up. In fact, some people were just getting there! The water was still warm enough to go in, something out of the question in Galicia.

Speaking of beaches, one morning we walked to the local beach right up and over a hill next to the Old Town. Paradise Found! There, the snack bar was playing the same 1950s beachy and relaxing music we had heard at the Yacht Club in Galaxidi. Maybe it's a beachcomber radio station! The dreamy music paired with crystalline waters and being surrounded by cliffs: amazing. The only downside was the beach was made of rocks which is not so comfortable to set your towel on. We only stayed for part of the morning anyways. So much to do, so much to see! 

Arvanitia Beach

Galixidi, Greece: A Serene Seaside Escape

Balcony view of Galaxidi

After visiting Athens' must-see sites, we rented a car and headed north to experience two very different Greek vacation destinations: Galaxidi and Nafplio. Our first overnight stop was sleepy Galaxidi. We arrived around lunchtime, when the heat was just about unbearable. We stayed at a charmingly-decorated hotel slightly elevated and on the outskirts, with a small balcony which provided a delightful view overlooking the orange rooftops of the old town. That little balcony would make for a lovely place for dinner or a nightcap, but in the afternoon it was just too hot. As we wandered around looking for sustenance, most places were literally shuttered. It reminded me of some Galician villages with decrepit buildings that are now all but deserted. We ended up settling on one restaurant on the corner of the harbor, thinking it was our only hope. Afterwards, we realized that was just the beginning, and that there were plenty of other dining options following it along towards the open seas. (Well, not quite open, as Galaxidi looks on to a bay.)

Clearly the Galixidi-ans respect the siesta time just as their Mediterranean counterparts do in Spain. And for good reason! But once it began to cool off (as in, down to 80ºF), the place livened up a bit. Not much, but a bit. As we were out getting a feel for the town, we came across a sort of yacht club (to call it something). It was a bar/restaurant that had umbrellas and deck chairs available for rent right on its own little pier. And turns out that after 6 PM they were free! Coincidentally, we asked at about 6:15. With this in mind, we returned other days around that time, and certainly weren't the only ones showing up for free deck chair time. It felt like one more little luxury on our trip. Isto si que é lúa de mel! I myself didn't partake, but from the deck chair zone you could hop right off into the sea. Our first Greek Mediterranean Sea experience.

Luxury!

 

As a whole, I enjoyed Galaxidi for the ultra relaxed vibes. Zero crowds, and it seemed like most people there were Greek (along with quite a few French). Added to the narrow streets and retro signs, it really felt like a place from times gone by, like we were walking around on a movie set in Greece in the 1950s. On a nighttime stroll, we saw groups of teenagers hanging out, which reminded me of Miño and other Galician seaside towns. I bet the same families come back year after year and the kids end up making groups of friends. If not for the fashion, that group may have contained its own Danny & Sandy with their old-timey summer lovin'.  Greece's own Grease, if you will. ;)

When it came time for us to head to our next destination, there was a slight hiccup. As we trudged to the car loaded with baggage, lo and behold the formerly empty street where we had parked was now a bustling market street. Unbeknownst to us, the little lines painted perpendicularly on the left side of the road in fact designated market stalls. Now it all makes sense. And of course market day fell on the morning of our departure! So between hand gestures and basic English, we asked the nearest fruit-seller what time they packed it up. Luckily, we only had an hour to wait, so we spent it at a nearby snack bar we had been to the night before. In no time we were able to get into our car and on the road. Profuse Ευχαριστώ (one of the most important words we picked up: thank you!) That was one of our more memorable travel interactions with the locals.