Another Weekend, Another Festival: Vendaval Fest

¨Ugh, not another festival!¨ Those words actually came out of my mouth. But I'm taking them back! While I had been longing to just stay at home for the weekend, we already had plans. The Vendaval Fest of rock music in Ribadeo. It turned out to be a well-balanced weekend away at a well-organized music festival in its third year. 

The festival itself was really cheap (around 20€ for 2 days of concerts!) and the camping was practically free at just 2€ per person for 2 nights. As one of our camp neighbors observed, you can barely go to a regular campground for that price and have hot showers. Throw in the added bonus of music and it's a steal! Part of the fun of music festivals is camping out among other attendees who evidently share the same taste in music. I can't always tell if this is a good thing or bad thing, being in close quarters. But in this case, we set up our tent next to a friendly couple and ended up chatting with them quite a bit.

Indiano in Ribadeo

Ribadeo is just a great town to walk around and enjoy the atmosphere. It has tons of bars and shops (which open on Sundays!) and lots of lovely indiano architecture. But on a sunny, Friday holiday during a music fest? That combination meant a lot of people were milling around. At lunchtime in the center of town, a very upbeat DJ spun songs in Galician as part of the festival's opening celebrations. The 25th of July is Galician National Day, after all, making it a 3-day weekend. 

After taking in the pre-festival fun, we went the cheap route and had sandwiches at our tent and rested up before the concerts around 7. I felt bad for the openers because hardly anyone was around for the first concert. Cuarta Xusta is a Galician band whose violin sets it apart from other rock groups. They were followed by a Galician grunge band (Sandford Music Factory) that sings in English. We had seen them at Resurrection Fest last year. Next was a big-name Spanish punk band which no doubt attracted a lot of people to the festival: Lendakaris Muertos. Their spazzy singer jumped into the moshpit several times despite being in his 50s. After their set, the crowd died down quite a bit, leaving us plenty of room at the front. Perfect, because someone had been listening to Rienda Suelta's CD on repeat in preparation for their concert. Afterwards, we turned in at the very responsible time of 1:30 AM, missing the last act which surely drew a good amount of fans.  

Saturday we got up relatively early, but thanks to noise throughout the night, I was still sleepy. A trip to the beach for a morning nap was in order! We weren't sure how sandy the beaches of Ribadeo would be, so we got in the car, crossed the bridge to Asturias, and landed on Arnao Beach. Wide and pretty, with rock formations in the middle. The water was way too cold to go in for me. Instead I opted for walking around the rock formations where we spotted a few little crabs, some tiny fish, and even a little shrimp. Then a little nap under the sun. 

Playa Arnao

We couldn't spend all day at the beach, though, because around 1PM the day's sesión vermú was underway. I was tempted to blow it off, but I'm glad we didn't! Mekanika Rolling Band is just that...a rolling band with guitar, drums, trombone, and saxophone. Playing energetic hits throughout Ribadeo as more and more people joined in the party. We had a blast singing along and dancing around with them. 

After lunch and a nap, by 7 it was day 2 of concerts. Saturday opened with a classic rock-n-roll band from Asturias. They were followed by two bands emulating a similar time in the early 70s (they sure dressed the part), the main difference being the second was led by a woman with an amazing voice. Curiously, all of these Spanish bands sung in English. Then came an electro-rock band from Galicia that sung in Spanish. And lastly (for us) Reincidentes, a classic in Spanish punk rock. After jumping around with them, it was time for bed! We missed the last ska band, but that's ok. And being the second night, I think people were just too pooped to be up all night chatting like the night before. Thank goodness; I slept all night long. 

To conclude: rock + camping + beach = way better than staying home! 

Live! In Concert! In Vigo: The Black Keys!

The benefit of following school schedules is that on a random Monday in summer, you can go to Vigo's concerts in the park series. Not that I had ever been interested in going. But when I saw that the Black Keys were coming, sign me up! Especially at the unheard of price of only 15€!

As a non-resident of Vigo, the ticket system seems pretty fair to me. After all, the city council is mostly footing the bill, so they rightfully give locals an advantage. Tickets go on sale a week before the show. They are personalized, so no ticket scalpers hiking prices. Four thousand tickets are for sale in person, while another 1,000 are available online. Since people probably aren't going to drive all the way from Madrid to wait in line the week before the concert, most of those in-person sales are probably from residents of Vigo or nearby areas. People that could get the day off to wait in line (which for the Black Keys, apparently started at 4:30 AM!). We are lucky to have family there who waited in a short line in the afternoon to get our tickets. 

The concert was held in an amphitheater in Castrelos Park at 10PM. Beforehand, the surrounding bars and cafés were bustling with rock-n-roll types, not a free terraza seat in sight. We got there around 9:15, not sure how crowded it was going to be. The upper part certainly was full. Its stone benches were free on a first-come-first-serve basis whereas the grassy pit below required the 15€ entrance fee. We ended up somewhere in the middle with a good view. And the pit was actually not as packed as I had expected. Before the concert, the mayor of Vigo came out to give his little spiel. That man is a character and deserves a post of his own. Next it was time for the Black Keys! It was still light out when the band started playing. Their original set was about an hour long, then after making us wait they returned for a two-song encore. Throughout the show, they played all of their hits (which is what I know of them, honestly) plus two songs from their upcoming album. Rock'n'roll! The music sounded awesome, and I enjoyed bouncing around, singing along, and jamming right along with them and 5,000 others.

Rural Ourense

On a long weekend at the beginning of May, we decided to go away to explore some towns in southwest Ourense and stay at a casa rural. The drizzle held off for the most part, allowing us to walk around quite a bit, but the dampness prevented us from going full-on hiking.

Ceiling, San Rosendo

Inner doors, San Rosendo

Celanova
Our first stop on Saturday was Celanova. Being a small town, there aren't a million things to do there. But keeping in mind the scant population (less than 6,000), the church of San Rosendo is shockingly grandiose and ornate. The gold-painted inner doors paired with a very detailed sculpted ceiling make it seem more like a basilica for a big metropolis. The church is connected to a large former Benedictine monastery, dating back to the 900s. Nowadays, the cloister is open to meander, and the rest of the building is used for a high school and other public purposes. Can you imagine going to school in a building over 1000 years old?! 

 

 

Where's my accordion when I need it?

Vilar de Santos
Just a village, the main reason we went here was to get some dinner, as the casa rural didn't offer meals, and this village was the only thing less than 20 minutes away. There is a tavern there which only opens on weekends, but really does wonders for the surrounding area culturally. They host concerts every day of the weekend, and offer a place to socialize in a rural area where bars and cafes are scarce. The night we went, there was an accordion duet. The guys were fun and into it, one of them sometimes switching the accordion out for other instruments. It turns out, in addition to having written a book about accordionists in the region, they were also the instructors of a weekend-long accordion course. Their students were eager to practice what they had learned, so suddenly we were surrounded by dozens of accordion players! It was surreal. Like an accordion flashmob!


Congostro
How I happened upon this ethnographic town I don't even recall, but it was worth the stop. There wasn't even a bar in this village, that's how small it was. There did seem to be a family of locals out and about, but aside from that, the narrow lanes were deserted. Apparently there is a little route describing characteristic buildings of a typical Galician village. I was only able to find the info about the Galician home (animals sleeping downstairs, family life taking place upstairs) and the communal oven (whereas houses in the countryside each have their own bread oven, in the village they pitched in to build a communal one). The other highlight of this village is the square full of hórreos. 

 

A conglomeration of hórreos

Allariz
We kind of ran out of things to see, so added Allariz to the list. I had already been, but revisiting a pretty place boasting narrow, hilly streets and a tranquil riverside was fine by me. So Sunday morning we headed out to this Medieval, pedestrian town. In addition to rambling around, the small toy museum kept us entertained for about a half an hour. Then we snagged a table for lunch outdoors with river views at the old tannery. In the Middle Ages, Allariz was once known for its leathermaking. Now the stone-floored building on the banks of the Arnoia River has been turned into a museum/restaurant. Inside, watch your step because after hundreds of years, the floor is anything but flat. Our experience was lovely and very enxebre! The food was tasty and the place packed, probably because it's a classy place to take your mom on Mother's Day. The meal rounded off a calm weekend in rural Ourense.

 

Wysteria and hórreo, Allariz