It's Tough to Be a Senior in Spain

While kids in the USA are probably out of school already, students in Spain still have another 2 whole weeks of class to trudge through. Except for the ¨seniors¨ in their last year of high school (called 2nd BAC or bachillerato). They finished their final exams at the beginning of May and have spent the past month studying like crazy. Today in Galicia they are in their last day of testing for the Spanish version of the SAT-- the EBAUs. That stands for Evaluation of Bachillerato for Access to University (hey, the acronym works in English, too!)

I say Spanish version of the SAT because it is an exam necessary to get into college. But the similarities end there. Whereas in the United States students can take the SAT or ACT as many times as they want--starting early, a few years before graduation-- in Spain you've only got one shot. Not only that, but there are several exams, one for each subject. In Galicia --since there is a co-official language-- there are five written tests: Spanish, Galician, English, History or Philosophy, and Math (or another exam related to the type of bachillerato you have been studying). You can also take up to four more exams on elective subjects to raise your score.

But what happens if you have a bad day? What if you're sick or just totally blank? There is the possibility of a redo, a month or two later. But you risk the spots filling up for your chosen major. That's another difference between Spain's college access system and the United States'. Here you get into college based on your chosen major and whether or not it aligns with your combined score. Rather than GPA and SAT scores being evaluated separately, here they are combined into one neat number. Your grades in the last two years of high school count for 60% of your score and the EBAU results make up the other 40%. The maximum score is a 14. Ten of those points are made up of the aforementioned percentage of grades and test scores. The other possible four points are from exams that are ¨weighted,¨ and related to your chosen field of study. For example, future med students might take the biology or chemistry exams. Future language teachers would probably go for some other foreign languages.

Beforehand, universities publish a cut off score for each specific major. As you can imagine, medical degrees require near-perfect scores, but these minimums vary depending on the college. Then after the exam, students look at their final score out of 14 and based on that, apply to colleges and their desired major. And just because you made the cutoff score doesn't necessarily mean you made the cut. If a college's program got more applicants than it was expecting and they all did better than you, well, you might have to choose a new major or school.

So basically, after ending classes early, seniors in Spain have to hit the books, maybe even more so than during the school year. Their future is depending on it. So much for senioritis!

Volcanic Lanzarote

Cobblestone like asphalt

This month we made our own long weekend and took a short trip to Lanzarote, one of the Canary Islands. Cross another comunidad autónoma off my list. This archipelago is located off the coast of Africa, a 2.5 hour flight from Galicia. Why this is still Spanish territory is beyond me. The perpetually decent weather makes it a hot spot for tourism year round.

Each island has its own personality, and Lanzarote's is largely based on it being volcanic. The scenery was out of this world! Black, black everywhere. I was especially fascinated by the old buildings or cobblestones being charcoal gray. It makes sense, because you use the stones you have. But it was so striking compared to light-colored buildings and roads I'm used to seeing in Galicia and beyond.

Black and grey, everywhere

 

As a volcanic island, it's not exactly fertile. Nothing to do with green Galicia. There is little to no grass or soil on the island; just rocks, pebbles, and sand. It is not completely without vegetation, though. Cacti and palm trees are abundant in this arid land, even if the trees have to be watered with irrigation systems. And the most unexpected plant on Lanzarote is... grapes. In fact, the island has its own variety called malvasía volcánica and a certificate of origin for its wines. The way they grow the grapes is especially eye-catching: they dig and then build half-circles of dark, volcanic rock to protect the plants from the wind. Apparently the black crushed rocks (for lack of soil) do a good job of retaining the moisture from dew. The result is an extraterrestrial backdrop of rows of dark grey structures on a black surface with green flecks in between. Unfortunately we didn't have time to visit a winery, but that would have been awesome. At least we got to take some pictures and try this unique wine one night at dinner. 

 

Rows of Lanzarote grapes being protected. Out of this world!

Lava just froze

The main attraction in Lanzarote was a visit to Timanfaya National Park. (Pronounced like ¨team on fire.¨ Fits with the volcanic backdrop!) Once you enter the park grounds, all around is black hardened lava. It's like the volcano just exploded a few years ago. From the very organized parking lot, you board a bus which takes you around a curvy road carved into these rough black rocks. The 45-minute visit has recordings describing the history of the eruptions in Timanfaya in three languages, complete with apocalyptic music. The most recent eruptions took place at the end of the 19th century. It wasn't just one big mountain-like volcano. Instead, the earth opened all around and magma gushed out. Based on the expansiveness of the park, it had to be massive and terrifying. After all, it lasted six years!

Following the bus tour, park rangers show you a series of quick experiments to demonstrate just how hot it remains under the surface. First there is a a well-like hole a few meters deep. They have a pole not even 10 feet long that they use to push some dry vegetation down into the hole. Seconds later, it's up in flames! On your way to the next demonstration, someone hands out a few reddish pebbles, warning ¨hot! caliente! heiß!¨ And they really are. The next experiment involves some much smaller holes and a bucket of water. Pour down the bucket, wait a few seconds, and it comes whooshing up like a geyser. Lastly you can head into the gift shop or restaurant. It's not an experiment, but they have another well-like hole in the ground with a grate on top. There, a few dozen chicken breasts and thighs are cooking over the subterranean heat. 

 

Chicken roasting on an underground fire🎵

 

The national park isn't the only volcanic wonder on Lanzarote. Another remnant of the island's volcanic past is a cave-- or rather volcanic tunnel-- called Cueva de los Verdes. (For all you Spanish buffs, unfortunately there is nothing green about this cave. Its name comes from the ¨discoverers¨ last name.) As it's a tunnel, it's pretty straight, and is almost 5 miles long. It was formed when a nearby volcano erupted 4000 years ago and essentially filled the valley with lava. The cooling process created this neat formation. So no stalagmites or stalactites here.

Canary concert in los Jameos del Agua

This same volcanic tunnel continues quite a distance to a different location called the Jameos del Agua. More subterranean wonder. While the cave was only worked on to have a lighting system, the Jameos del Agua got a full makeover, including plants, a restaurant on one side, and a bar on the other. And we actually got the privilege of going for dinner! On Friday nights they open late for a special occasion: dinner and a concert. It was absolutely breathtaking, dining in this decorated cave. From the table, we could gaze at a long natural pool, home to a species of tiny blind crab found only in the Jameos. After dinner, we were free to roam the premises while waiting for the concert. The other side of the pool has a little dance floor, and then up through rocks the other side is open-air. Tables and a bar are scattered along the way up. Once you reach ground level, there is an artificial blue pool that looks lovely contrasting the white painting and dark shades of the rocks. When it came time for the concert, we perched ourselves at a table at the upper bar. The music was Canarian-- upbeat and fun. The whole evening was an unforgettable experience.  

 

Would love to take a dip in the Jameos del Agua

Imagine calling this place home!

Lanzarote's volcanic visits don't end there. Before catching the plane back to Galicia we stopped at the artist César Manrique's house. This local artist was behind the décor for the aforementioned volcanic tunnels and as a whole, was perhaps the island's biggest advocate in terms of preserving its natural splendor. Nowadays, you can visit both of his houses. We opted for the Casa del Volcán. I didn't expect much while visiting this artist's abode, but that was pretty silly of me. It was so simple but so unique! Mother Nature did most of the work, though. He built his house on land (that is, rock) that just so happened to have several volcanic ¨bubbles.¨ That means that the underground rooms naturally carved out of the rock got some sunlight from a hole in the surface. He painted white over most of the rock flooring and about halfway up the walls. He decked out the basement rooms with couches, and even added a small pool in the open area. The result was a totally far-out pad (it was the 70s, after all)!

Pool area at César Manrique's volcanic house

Llanes in Low Season

What to do when your best friend lives in Basque Country and you in Galicia? Meet up in the middle in good old Asturies. In April we met up in Llanes, despite the fact that all of us in our group had already been there before. It's a nice town with lots of charming architecture and just enough nightlife to keep you entertained. We did notice that the place has tons of bars, assumedly in the summer it is swarmed with tourists coming to visit nearby beaches. 

A lot of the architecture in Llanes is in the indiano style, typical of northern Galicia too. These ornate houses were built by returned emigrants who had made a fortune abroad. The well-preserved specimen below was right next to a completely dilapidated house. Should have taken its picture too for comparison. It wouldn't be an indiano house without a palm tree to pay homage to the land where said fortune was made-- in South or Central America.

As we only stayed one night, we didn't do a whole lot aside from walk around. Luckily it was great weather, so we were glad to be able to have coffees and drinks outside. When in Asturies, one must drink sidra, so that we did. I'm really never sure about the protocol, as you are supposed to share cups, but maybe not everyone in the group is keen to. Plus I've been told that it's rude to pour it yourself, as it suggests that the waiter/waitress pouring sidra is not attentive enough to your table's thirst. They generally come around asking if you'd like some more every 5-10 minutes. And it would appear that not all servers are equally skilled at sidra pouring. No surprise there, as you have to lift the bottle over your head and hold your hand with the glass at waist-level. Other sidrerías have graduated to giving out small pouring machines with your bottle of sidra. They aerate the sidra just as well or even better than if it were poured from up high, but it's just not the same. More convenient though, that's for sure. And no awkwardness of ¨Should I ask for a pour or just do it myself?¨either.

European charm

The next morning we went to nearby village and beach Celoriu. Coincidentally enough, we had both already been there, too. I had gone camping there in one of my first summers living in Galicia. But apparently it didn't make it to the blog back then. The reason for going this time around was for the menfolk to go fishing off the dock. We checked in on them shortly after they had settled in and that's when one of our companions caught his first ever fish! Too small to keep though. After a few hours, they fished something decent and we were able to have salpicón (a seafood cocktail of fish,  diced raw onions, carrots and peppers dressed with oil and vinegar) for dinner once home, not even 36 hours after we had first set off. 

 

Gusty day for fishing

Top 20 Galician Festivals 🎉

Good weather is here to stay in Galicia. And with that, a celebration is in order! While Spain as a whole is known for partying and celebrations, Galicia in particular has an endless list of festivals. Whether you're fond of food, eager for a blast from the past, or wanting to embrace local culture, Galicia has got a festival for everyone! I've decided to compile the best here. Some I've been to, and some are still on my to-do list. Check 'em out!

Historical:

• Feira Franca, Pontevedra. In September, get transported back to the Middle Ages. The city gets decked out for the day, but I remember being disappointed that not everyone was dressed up. (My experience)
  
• Arde Lucus, Lugo. Kick off summer with a wildly popular clash of Roman and Celtic (Castrexo) cultures. It lasts the whole weekend and has many events such as a Roman circus, reenactments, and interactive ceremonies like Celtic baptisms. (My experience)
  
• Assault on the Castle, Vimianzo. Another Medieval Fest, but specifically around the episode which took place at this castle in 1468. In that year there was an irmandiño rebellion where they sieged the castle. Nowadays they do a reenactment where all can participate. Maybe next year will be the year I finally make it there.
  
• Ribadeo Indiano, Ribadeo. This event celebrates indianos, those Galician emigrants to Latin America lucky enough to return home with a fortune at the beginning of the 20th century. The dress code for this event is white, preferably in early 20th century style. Ribadeo -- and the northern coastal region of A Mariña in general-- has many examples of indiana architecture: ornate mansions from the turn of the century. So it must make for a lovely backdrop. Some day!
• Romaría Vikinga, Catoira. Once again off to the Middle Ages, but with a Viking twist. At this festivity they reenact the arrival of the Vikings to Galicia, who at the time were fought off. Now there are only two towers in ruins on the riverside where merrymakers welcome and party with the vikings, rather than clash with them.
  
• Festa da Istoria, Ribadavia. Around for over 30 years, this might be Galicia's original Medieval Fair. If you're looking to be transported back to the Middle Ages, you really have options in Galicia.

 

Roman fort in Arde Lucus

Gastronomic:

• Albariño Festival, Cambados. People swarm to this small capital of white wine, which keeps the crowds entertained at night with concerts. I've been and would certainly go again.
  
• Ribeiro Wine Festival, Ribadavia. Perhaps Galicia's less famous white wine, Ribeiro is celebrated in late spring. A special touch is the wine tasting in a historical building. (My experience)
  
• Wine Festival, Chantada. Always in late winter/early spring, this mostly-red-with-a-dash-of-white wine festival kicks off the year in enology. The downside on its timing is that often the weather does not cooperate. (My experience)
  
• San Simón Cheese Fest, Vilalba. Haven't been yet, but as one of my favorite types of cheese over here, it's certainly on my list! The day's events include cheese tasting and music. (My experience)
• Seafood Festival, O Grove. Razor clams, cockles, barnacles, or crab. Pick your pleasure at this event which celebrates all things seafood on the shores of the Rías Baixas. Plus, no Galician festival is complete without some concerts at night. I must admit I've never been because not only am I not a huge fan of seafood, but it always coincides with San Froilán in October.  
  
• Flat Onion Fest, Miño. In Galicia, every food is deserving of its own festival. Case in point, the flat onion. Not that I'd necessarily recommend going out of your way to attend. Unless you are crazy for this pungent veggie, that is. But it just goes to show that they'll make a festival out of anything here. For example, the following foods also boast their own festival here in Galicia: bread, sea lamprey, hake, Spanish omelette, pepper, tuna, ham, eel, the list goes on.

Onions, onions everywhere

 

Cultural:

• Cans Film Fest, Cans. If movies are more your thing, head to this tiny, tiny village between Vigo and Portugal. It's a pun on Cannes, because the village name is similar. Audiences gather to watch short films in barns, garages, anywhere! And in the evening there are concerts for your entertainment. I've been twice and would go back in a heartbeat, but there are only so many weekends in a year. ;)
  

 

Film screening over pile of wood in Cans

 

Music

• Resurrection Fest, Viveiro. Masses of metal/rock fans from all over Europe--and maybe even the world!-- flock to pack the town of Viveiro. It's a weekend full of dozens of concerts, always with some internationally-acclaimed headliners. This year will be my first time going, so stay tuned! (My experience)
• International Celtic Music Fest, Ortigueira. I've never been, but have heard many tales of the fun environment found at this festival. They bring in Celtic bands from all over the world for a summer weekend of Celtic fun.
   

 Miscellaneous

• Carrilanas (Soap Box Derby), Esteiro. I'm dying to get to this one. It's a summer soap box derby by day with big-name concerts by night! 
• Rapa das Bestas, Sabucedo and others. Hundreds of wild horses are corralled annually for a haircut and de-worming. After the job is done, a celebration ensues.
• Dorna Boat Fest, Ribeira. This longstanding festival on the coast celebrates their traditional fishing boat (dorna), a key part of life in this town for ages. It has mushroomed from a one-day gathering when it started in the late 1940s to its current form: nearly a week of activities, games, concerts, and fun for groups dressed in matching t-shirts. It even has an Icarus competition where people try to make flying contraptions, as well as a Soap Box Derby.
  
• Water Festival, Vilagarcía de Arousa. In the middle of August, this celebration is all about water to cool you down. I've never had the pleasure of attending, but from what you can see on videos online, looks like a riot! I have heard that it is more geared towards the ¨youth¨ than the middle-aged and older. 
• Corpus Christi, various. Several towns in Galicia celebrate Corpus Christi in a similar way: by designing giant ¨rugs¨ made out of petals in the streets. One year I went and watched them work at night in Redondela. It was cool, but not much of a ¨festival¨ if you are looking for a wild time.
  

 

Preparing the petal murals in Redondela

And I didn't even get into patron saint celebrations, which can be a massive event in Galician cities. Not to mention special days celebrated throughout Galicia, such as Magosto or Midsummer. So if you're planning a trip to Galicia, why not schedule your visit around a fab festival that piques your interest?  You surely won't be disappointed. Galicians know how to have a good time!

Having Fun Teaching English

In my decade in Spain, I have always worked somehow teaching English. When I first came back after study abroad, I worked as an auxiliar de conversación, a language assistant in a high school. Then I had a stint at an academia, where students learn English after school all over Spain. Now I am an autónoma, meaning self-employed (a topic worth a blog post of its own). So I still spend my days with kids and teenagers, and still treasure the fun misunderstandings and cultural differences.

This week I asked a 16-year-old student where he hung out with his friends. Keep in mind, here in Spain 18 is the legal age to both drive and drink alcohol, so it's not like he could just hop in his car and go somewhere. ¨At the bar.¨ What?? I've been here long enough to know that bars are okay for all-ages. In the beginning I remember being shocked seeing little kids at bars, even if they were accompanying their parents. But still, even now, his answer came off as so strange. Imagine my underage student and his pals having a pop at a seedy, dark bar like back home. He met my surprise with his own bafflement. ¨So then where do kids get a Coke in the United States? What do you mean they hang out at people's houses?!¨ Cultural differences still exist, however small they may be.

My youngest ¨student¨ is 4. A while back she used to speak jibberish to me, I believe in an attempt at ¨speaking my language.¨ Her new favorite joke is saying things that are wrong and then cracking up when I call her a silly goose. For example, she points to the number 3 and says ¨Five¨ or the color red and says ¨yellow,¨ and waits grinning for me to catch her mistake. Obviously, at 4 she doesn't know a ton, but after 2 years it seems that she understands me and has a good basic vocabulary of animals, colors, numbers.

On the other end of the spectrum are two teenage sisters who I have worked with for the past four years. They have a great level of English, so we just spend the hour chatting or even gossiping. Sometimes when I leave they trill, ¨Love youu¨ like we're besties. They also argue over which of them knows me better. Daymakers! 

Most days, I just get such a kick out of teaching English over here.

Solos en una Isla Griega: Kimolos Top 3

OK, it's time to wrap this Greece trip recap up, before a whole year has passed since we went. Last but not least, was the island of Kimolos. On the whole, our two-week journey was ordered from more hectic to more relaxed. We started off with big-city Athens with lots to see, then coastal towns/cities that were a little slower-paced but still quite busy, followed by the small island of Milos, and lastly the tiny island of Kimolos. Kimolos makes Milos look big and bustling in comparison. 

Apparently, part of Chorio's castle

The ferry ride between the two islands is barely half an hour. Although a smattering of houses can be found near the port and on other parts of the island, Kimolos really only has one village, Chorio. And it's so charming! All painted white with blue accents. Even the stones on the ground were outlined in white paint. (The island's official website has tons of info in English, FYI)

On quiet island time, our schedule was as follows: mornings at the beach, lunch, nap, stroll around town in the mild evenings, catch a glimpse of the sunset, dinner on our patio, bed, repeat.

 

We strayed from our routine on three occasions: 

1. Hike to Skiadi. A must see in Kimolos. The short hike is worth it to see this giant mushroom rock. And frankly, it was nice to do something other than go to the beach. The trail is well-indicated, and for the hour there we were totally alone amongst a barren backdrop. On the way back, we ran into another couple who asked in Greek, ¨How far away is Skiadi?¨ At least that's what I thought they said, so I answered in English. She seemed satisfied enough with my reply. Anyways, you don't have to be a geologist to appreciate this very unique rock formation, nor do you have to be an expert trekker to get there. 

Skiadi!

2. Movie Night. One of the most serendipitous events on our trip was a little outdoor film screening. We had heard about it from some hitchhikers we picked up and decided to check it out for ourselves. As the sun was going down, the water was just warm enough to go in. Crossing ¨sunset dip¨ off my Greek bucket list. That's certainly something you can't do in Galicia...the water would be just too frigid! From the beach we could see a path of tiki torches. So picturesque! We sat on some boulders furthest from the screen to make a quick exit. More than the movie we were just interested in the set up. It was in English (fine for me) but with Greek subtitles (not so fine for my travel companion). Quite amazing that this tiny island has a cultural society that puts on fun activities. Good on you, Kimolos! 

 

Movie Night with the Kimolistes

3. Fancy Restaurant. From our home base, we could see a building on a hill with a wraparound porch beautifully lit at night. Turns out this is one of Kimolos' fancier restaurants. On our last night we treated ourselves to dinner there, switching things up from our usual spread of simple Greek tapas on our little patio. The ambiance of the place was pleasant, and the pasta was pretty good. This was our big ¨night on the town¨ in Kimolos.