The Return; Sola in Ferrol

After a lengthy hiatus, I have returned to ¨the blog.¨ I can barely keep up with my personal journaling, let alone maintaining this. So many noteworthy things happening, and I don't feel like sitting around to write about them. I should note that this Christmas I went home for two weeks. It was a great time to see family and friends live and in person, since it had been a while.

Back in January shortly after my return to Galicia, I went to Ferrol. As one of Galicia's Seven cities, it had been on my to-see list for a while, although people warned me there wasn't much to see there. But it has the sea and a fortress, which was enough for me. While researching a day trip, it came to my attention that there was going to be a tribute to grunge in one of Ferrol's concert halls. Nirvana! Pearl Jam! Alice in Chains! Oh my! I asked around, but not even my grungiest friends were able/willing to travel over an hour for a concert. But being desperate for live music, and not having many options in good old Lugo, I decided to go anyways.

Ferrol City Hall

Friday afternoon I went in a rideshare with two women from Ferrol. They were amazed that I was going alone--not because it was a dangerous place, but because I was a foreigner and it seemed like a random destination. Their surprise only made me feel braver. If I could travel alone for a weekend in a foreign country, I could certainly go to a nearby city where I'm actually fluent in the language. By the time I arrived, it was already dark (blasted winter hours!). I had reserved a hotel room, knowing full well I would be incapable of going home de reenganche (staying out until the morning bus back to Lugo).

After checking in, I headed out in search of dinner. I wandered around for about half an hour, taking in all of my dining options. I banked on a deal in a nautical restaurant: 6€ for a white wine and 4 scallops. Delightful! But I still had time to spare and was a bit hungry so I went to O Lagar Sidrería. Now, in Lugo we are spoiled and get a pintxo and tapa with every drink. I wasn´t expecting as much in Ferrol. But in that cider house were the Best 2€ I've ever spent: I ordered myself a white wine. Soon arrived the tapa, a small bowl of fabada (Asturian white bean soup). A nice tapa, like at home. After the waitress took the plate away, she returned with another plate of boiled potatoes and 2 chunks of meat. For me?! A two course tapa! But that's not all, because lastly she brought a small plate of ham! All for me! Incredible. Lugo could learn something from this restaurant eh!

Statue of their Holy Week parade figure

Around midnight it was finally time for the concert. For some reason I expected a big concert hall, but it was just a bar not unlike my favorite haunts in Lugo, except with a nice-sized stage. It started with a guy covering Alice in Chains and STP, then a band playing Pearl Jam for a long time, and finally Nirvana. Of course they saved the best for last! But that meant the set was quite short and they sped up the rhythms. It was a fun time regardless.

The next morning I did some strolling. I saw part of the port, but didn´t actually glimpse the sea. There was a bus at 11, so I decided to take it rather than staying for the day. Thus I missed some of the sites I had hoped to see, but I guess it'll be for another day...

Sweet Santander

In order to celebrate those two Thanksgivings, I spent a weekend visiting my best friend in Santander. I now understand why she would leave Lugo for such a place.

Endless stairs

 Santander is a coastal city which isn't very big. But it does have its hills--and also outdoor escalators, moving sidewalks, and a funicular to help you on your way up. And my friend's apartment has simply marvelous views: not only because it's a top floor at the top of the hill, but you get sea views from both sides of it. Well, one is ¨the bay¨ and the other is the coast, but they´re both water and absolutely dreamy on a clear day!

On Saturday we took a train trip to the small Cantabrian town of Liérganes. One thing I truly envy about the rest of Northern Spain (Asturias, Cantabria and Basque Country) is that their towns are all well connected by local trains. Why does Galicia (Lugo specifically) have to be so isolated?! Agh. Anyways, the town was pretty, right next to some mountains. But I also have the pleasure of seeing mountains in the distance from my high school every day so...the awe has worn off. It was nice to spend an hour or two walking around though.

Ye Olde Bridge, Liérganes

We seem to have mostly grown out of the Spanish party-til-dawn lifestyle, and didn't hit the town too hard. One night we went to a Nirvana tribute band concert. They were much better than I expected; the singer sounded just like Kurt! I definitely enjoyed myself rocking out to the soundtrack of my high school years...along with a bunch of Spanish high schoolers and 30-somethings. And after preparing and celebrating Thanksgiving, there was no way I was leaving the house. But no matter, Santander, I shall return for you!

Also in the park: carved trunks

On Sunday it was unbelievably warm for being practically December. We trekked to a lighthouse along the coast. Not a hike, but a nice little walk. On the way we observed a lot of beach football matches going on. They were wise to take advantage of the weather! Later we went to a royal park between beaches: Real Sitio de la Magdalena. There they have penguins and seals in areas right next to shore. And in the wooded area there is the royal family's old vacation dwelling. A delightful park for a stroll or picnic, for sure. Then we watched the sun set at a beach bar terrace. A pleasant end to an equally pleasant weekend.

Thanksgiving

Once again, the American tradition of Thanksgiving was brought to the masses. By masses I mean about 20 people total, since I celebrated the holiday twice (which is more than I would in the USA). The first round was here in Lugo. Since my American best friend has left me for coastal Santander, I was planning on skipping the day of, and just celebrating with her on the weekend in Santander. My darling Spanish roommate, however, had other plans and insisted we prepare dinner here. There ended up being 13 of us! We used two tables for the first time ever. Fani and I made everything, and most guests brought a bottle of wine...which ended up being a lot. The menu was typical except once again, chickens instead of turkey. And Fani even made lactose- and gluten-free pumpkin pie! Not bad, for a Spaniard. ;) In attendance were mostly Spaniards, as well as a Brazilian and a pair of Englishmen. Once again we did our tradition of holding hands and saying what we´re thankful for.

Desserts! 

In Santander I only worked as Lauren's sous chef. This time was a bit more international with guests from Poland, Germany, and Africa (I realize it's a continent, not a country, but they didn't specify). Lauren prepared very expensive turkey breast, so hopefully our unAmerican friends savored it! And for dessert...basically everyone brought something. There was brazo gitano (Spanish), a Polish dessert similar to apple pie, quesada (Cantabrian), and Lauren's sweet potato pie. As Lauren and I have said before, some day we´ll plan a huge feast and charge a small entrance fee. But for now, friends who are lucky enough to receive an invite get to come taste an American tradition de balde.

Magostos and Chestnuts Galore

Oh snap! It's been a while since I've written, but the nice part of that is it's because I've been too busy livin' la vida gallega. And since the weather is now cold and the holiday decorations are coming up, I better hurry up and write about Magosto, Galician's autumnal celebration.

A whopper of a chestnut

Magosto is a chestnut-based festa celebrated mostly in Galicia (Spain's #1 chestnut producer), and also other regions of Northern Spain. It's usually held in early November and is a time to gather the community together and have roasted chestnuts. My first two years I didn't really enjoy them, but now I'm a fan. Estoume galeguizando! This year I attended not one, not two, but THREE Magostos!

The first was sponsored by the University´s Galician club: Liga Estudantil Galega, so you know it was legit. Groups of students chatted around a fire where they gave out chestnuts (castañas) roasted in a contraption similar to the metal cages used for bingo. And for snacks/dinner you could buy traditional goods like empanada and chorizo. Then there was the entertainment--a Galician band with tambourines, bagpipes, and drums. What fun! It's about time I learn how to dance like a Galician though!

The second Magosto was in a plaza in the center, sponsored by the bars and some community organizations. Again, they had free chestnuts, and the weather was nice enough to grab a beer and stand outside socializing. A lot of the foreigners took part in this one; always a jolly time.

A day in the life...

My third Magosto was at school, of course. As usual, the teachers had a lunch of chorizos and boiled potatoes beforehand. And despite having a dessert of empanada de manzana (similar to apple pie) with the teachers, I just couldn't resist trying 3 more desserts homemade by my students. It would be rude to deny them since they put them in my hand so enthusiastically! A lot of the castañas were rotten, but no matter. We played traditional games, like tug-of-war, trying to fish wine bottles, and...alcohol-free pong? American import, I guess! Then they played the broom dance, which I still don't get. Couples ¨dance¨ and have to get rid of a broom, but in reality they just end up running around holding hands tossing the broom at other pairs haha. I also got to lead the conga line for a few seconds. Groovy times!

Samhaín and All Saints

Samhaín
Samhaín is the original Celtic holiday from which modern Halloween is derived. Since Galicia is a Celtic nation, I have no problem with them bringing back this ancient tradition while the rest of Spain hops on the Halloween train. In Lugo there were some family activities that could easily have been for Halloween--pumpkin carving, costume parade. A key difference is that here the costumes are scary only. Save the funny and clever stuff for Carnival, people! In addition to that, there was a Queimada in the center. Queimada is liquor that they light on fire (thus its name) in a cauldron, after casting a spell on it. Very appropriate for Samhaín then! I went with some English-speaking friends and we were pretty hard to miss. One of the 'sorcerers' told me "It´s better than Coke!" Well, obviously. But man is it strong! We didn't even finish the cups they gave us. Then we went out and had a gay old time, where very few people were dressed up.

All Saints Day
Since I missed the train for a day trip, I figured it was as good a day as any to visit the cemetery. Unfortunately, none of my roommates had relatives I could go "visit." Anyways, my friend and I walked an hour, mostly uphill, to get there. Spanish cemeteries are a bit different than American ones in that they don´t have much grass, it's mostly marble tombs above ground, or mausoleums, or a wall with the tombstones. Took a picture of the wall, where it looks eerie, perhaps one of the souls broke out the night before on All Hallow's Eve? The cemetery was packed, with tons of fresh flowers, probably because of the holiday. In fact they had a special bus going from the cemetery to the city center. The night was finished off with a movie filmed in a place I´ve visited in Basque Country: Las Brujas de Zugarramurdi.

Cena de Gala

For the past few years, my adopted group of Spanish friends has had a yearly dinner where just the six of them (no significant others and no other friends) get together dressed to the nines to enjoy a fancy dinner and each others' company. Precious! So obviously I felt honored when this year they invited me to come along! Sure, I threw off the 3:3 male:female ratio. But no matter; being invited to this to me signified total assimilation. I can confidently say I am part of a cuadrilla/pandilla/friend group.

Los Internacionales + the real international ;)

My first claw

At the restaurant we were led to a private room for just the seven of us. To start there was toast with some toppings, a paste supposedly made of fish, but that's not what it tasted like to me. I tried to avoid this part anyways, saving room for the seafood! Then they brought out four big trays of razor clams, prawn, and scallops. I ate enough, but again didn't want to fill up on this. I thought the entire meal was going to be seafood but nay. At that point we each ordered whatever we wanted for another course--a very small steak for me. I assumed that would be our next course, but before that we were each brought a giant lobster. My eyes must have been like saucers because I definitely did not see that one coming! Had fun using the tools they gave us though. Afterwards was the personalized course, followed by dessert. Ice cream for everyone, mostly because nobody could fit anything solid down their throats.

After a delightful meal, we hit the town. It must be the only time all of them actually go out together, and nobody went home early! I think we all went home around 4, which was actually more like 5 due to the time change. T'was a wonderful evening with quality friends and food. Only my wallet is thankful it's a once-a-year event.

Las chicas (worth noting of my outfit only the tights were mine)