Nochebuena Donostiarra

Christmas Eve in San Sebastián was not unlike Christmas in America. Instead of anxiously awaiting Santa Claus, however, most kids were anticipating the arrival of Olentzero, a jolly Basque coal man, or Papá Noel, the Spanish equivalent of Santa. Unfortunately I wasn't feeling well enough to go see Olenztero and Mari Domingi parade around Parte Vieja. Surely it was a magical time, with a line full of children making their last-minute requests to them.

Dinner started on Spanish time around 9:30, obviously. It was a nice-sized gathering of my Spanish padres, their 3 grown children, a family friend, and me (la hija americana). Fancily enough, everyone had 3 glasses for drinks: champagne, wine, and a cocktail. Dinner consisted of a variety of plates to share, such as salmon, ham, oysters, foie, and prawn. It was my first experience with oysters (shocking since I've lived in coastal San Sebastián and Galicia), and I must say I enjoyed the taste of the salty sea. For dessert we had ice cream drizzled in hardened chocolate, almost like Klondike bars. While we were eating the king came on TV to give his discourse of the year, which  I imagine was treated like a joke in most households. Then political discussions commenced, an evidently international holiday tradition. With everyone talking at once, I didn't understand half of it, and that's perfectly fine with me.

After the sobremesa it was time to open presents. Hooraaaaay! I only brought everyone a coaster from my hometown, or a pair of earrings, but they seemed grateful regardless of the size. They even got me presents! Well, I already knew they planned to give me the CD of my hermano's band since he ruined the surprise. That was lucky, because I was planning to buy it anyways--and they sold out! But my madre also made her daughter and me some rosy-smelling lotions, and she knitted all of her kids a neck-warmer/buff/whatever you call it. So now that we all match, I definitely feel that I belong!

After exchanging gifts, the fun really started. One of my favorite hobbies: rocking out to Spanish music. But this time with my padre and DJ-hermano. The 3 of us sang "Agradecido" by Rosendo, and listened to some Spanish punk. Luis is a punk! Who knew?! Then the adults grooved to some classic Spanish rock/disco songs. Sharing good music is like sharing blood--instant connection. And with people I already considered my second family! (I knew they had to have good taste haha) Although I didn't spend Christmas with my own family, I got lucky and definitely had a noche buena.