 |
| Gándara Fountain |
Mondariz-Balneario is the smallest town in Galicia. Well to begin with, they organize land a little differently here so let's review. Galicia itself is a
comunidad autónoma (Autonomous Community) of Spain, divided into 4
provincias (provinces). Within these 4 provinces are 53
comarcas (regions). These regions are made up of 313
concellos, or town halls. These ¨town halls¨ are usually made up of one city/town, plus a little
aldeas (hamlets, villages) and even
lugares (sets of 2-5 houses). Mondariz-Balneario is only 2 square kilometers, next to the original town of Mondariz. Why bother separating? Because this part of the town has multiple springs of medicinal waters which when rediscovered in the 19th century, drew a lot of attention. It became a sort of theme park for the wealthy. The name of the town literally means Mondariz-Spa. Not to be confused with boring old Mondariz.
 |
Troncoso fountain has seen better days.
You can still glimpse its fancier days though. |
A charming riverside stroll takes you to the furthest fountain, Troncoso. The fountain is surrounded by an elaborate fence, and two sets of staircases lead down to it from the promenade. Nowadays, it's shabby. Yet it is easy to imagine that a century ago it was a fabulous place to meet your neighbors (or wealthy visitors).
The other main fountain, Gándara, is right next to the Mondariz spa. This one is grandiose; reminiscent of an ancient temple or observatory. According to the sign, the water treats gastroenteritis, liver issues, diabetes, and cardiovascular issues, among other things. With that in mind, I gave it a try. Hint: it tasted sour and awful.
After scoping out the grounds, we headed into the Mondariz spa for some R and R. The spa was opened in 1873, and has since been visited by illustrious Galicians and Spaniards including authors, politicians, and royalty. At the turn of the 20th century, the Grand Hotel was opened to host these visitors in opulence. Due to a fire later on, it went to the wayside. But in the past decades it has been restored to its grandeur of the good old days. The ¨Water Palace¨ as they call it, is quite nice with plenty of different pools, jacuzzis, saunas, and showers. There's even a small thermal bath outside which was a wonderful contrast on a winter afternoon.
Nearby Mondariz is a castle and a castro (Celtic settlement) which we also checked out. Sobroso Castle is a medieval fortress that gets its name from the forests of cork trees which surround it. During the Irmandiña revolts, it was mostly destroyed, but was later reconstructed. Nowadays you can get in for just a euro, although there isn't much to see. We did, however, enjoy its exhibition on underwear throughout the ages. Most of Galicia's Medieval castles aren't the endless collection of rooms and secret passageways you might imagine. Or maybe that's what they want us visitors to think!
 |
| Sobroso Castle, view of tower from second floor guard path |
About 20 minutes on horseback (I'm guessing; we used modern transportation) from the castle are the ruins of a Celtic castro. Over 1000 years ago, Troña Castro was a Celtic settlement with at least 30 homes. Its residents dug a ravine, which along with a wall, kept out enemy clans. And wouldn't ya know it, centuries later the Catholics decided it would be a fine place to build a chapel. Nowadays you can walk around the bases of the Celts' circular stone houses. You can also observe a mill carved into a rock. The castro is famous for its snake petroglyph, but we weren't able to spot it.
 |
| Troña Castro |
After scoping out the grounds, we headed into the Mondariz spa for some R and R. The spa was opened in 1873, and has since been visited by illustrious Galicians and Spaniards including authors, politicians, and royalty. At the turn of the 20th century, the Grand Hotel was opened to host these visitors in opulence. Due to a fire later on, it went to the wayside. But in the past decades it has been restored to its grandeur of the good old days. The ¨Water Palace¨ as they call it, is quite nice with plenty of different pools, jacuzzis, saunas, and showers. There's even a small thermal bath outside which was a wonderful contrast on a winter afternoon.
