Mallada in Meira

Mallar: Galician. verb, to beat cereals with a flail or mechanically to separate the grains from their husks. See Eng. threshing. Curiously, just like another one of its English counterparts, beat, it can be transformed into an adjective to mean exhausted. Estou mallada, I'm beat.

Wouldn't want to lose a needle here!

As a very rural region, Galicia has always had celebrations in accordance with the seasons and harvests. One such occasion is the malla or threshing. Before the advent of the combine harvester (which was much later in Galicia than you'd imagine) the malla was half social event, half work gathering. At the end of summer, neighbors used to help their neighbors get the job done after collecting the wheat. They'd rotate to pitch in at all area farms. While researching some vocabulary equivalents in English, I discovered similar get-togethers in the Great Plains. Threshing Bees. Given the size difference in land, Galicia's version was on a much smaller scale

After its near-disappearance in Galicia, the malla is making a comeback. In big towns around the plains of Galicia, they now gather to give a demonstration of threshing techniques, using a variety or manual and mechanical instruments. I guess this is to show us city slickers what hard work looks like. In late August, we went to Meira to see their malla. For the past 20 years, an association dedicated to preserving threshing has been holding this blast-from-the-past event. 

A mechanical threshing device

The small crowd assembled around the exhibition was made up of mostly senior citizens. Recognizing the machines that were used in the demonstration, old men reminisced about their childhoods. We were front and center to see how a group of volunteers coaxed a noisy threshing machine to work. Between demonstrations there was a roving traditional band, clad in old-fashioned traditional Galician clothes. Throughout the day there were supposedly handouts of donuts, wine, and queimada as well as other traditional musics. We didn't stay long enough to find out though. It took me a few hours to get over missing out on free donuts!

Getting wheat from the very top

Galician Block Party

It's 3 AM on a Saturday. Do you know where your grandparents are?

Well, if they live in the Galician countryside and their parish* is having it's annual celebration, they just might be out and about. I couldn't believe my eyes. Or my watch, for that matter.

In rural Galicia, neighbors chip in for what is comparable to an annual block party or town fair. Even if there are less than 100 people living in the parish. Even if the average age is 75. These block parties are usually in spring and summer, and always honoring a saint. The party is held near the church, as each parish has its own celebration. And with over 3,5000 parishes making up Galicia, if you wanted to visit all of their little festivals, it would take years.

Full bar, awaiting the orquesta

No Galician block party is complete without a stage and a bar.  Beforehand, the planning committee goes around to the houses asking for a donation. And you better give something, or risk being labeled the village cheapskates. With the money collected they hire orquestas and bring in a bar to keep folks entertained. By the way, in Galicia an orquesta doesn't mean what you think it means. It's a band with flashy costumes, choreographed dance moves, and a truck-turned-stage with dazzling lighting. They cover a wide array of songs to get the crowd moving: cumbia, paso dobles, rumba, pop, and even rock.

The usual order of events at these block parties is: mass, sesión vermú (meaning music and dancing before lunch), and later on the verbena (more music and dancing after dinner). Some parishes have specific traditions such as processions or picnicking.

After a short but sweet trip home this summer, back in Galicia it was my first year attending our parish's late-night party. Last year we went to the pre-lunch band. But this year I arrived at midnight and was surprised to see a good amount of people, almost all sporting white locks. There were also a handful of kids in the mix, likely grandkids of neighbors. And at our block party there was not one but two different orquestas, which is incredible to me, keeping in mind that there are less than 200 people to split the costs. The celebration lasted til 4 AM. In a field in the middle of nowhere! Now that's what I call a Galician block party.

*Note: As I have explained before, parish is one of the smallest subdivisions in Galicia. Towns --concellos-- are divided into different parishes --parroquias-- surrounding the churches scattered throughout town limits. Nowadays it's not merely a religious subdivision.