For the past 20 years, the Tourism Bureau of Galicia has sponsored a deal called Outono Gastronómico to promote tourism outside of the summer months. For 165€ for two people, you get lodging in a countryside bed and breakfast, an autumnal meal, and breakfast. It's not much of a deal for most bed and breakfasts whose nightly rate is less than 70€. But you can get the most bang for your buck by checking out the pricier accommodations. And that is how we ended up in Galicia's Downton Abbey. Because if it weren't for the Outono Gastronómico, the 150€ per night would certainly be out of our price range.
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| Pazo de Brandeso, Galicia's Downton Abbey |
Pazo de Brandeso was founded in 1620, not far from the town of Arzúa, which is a stop on the Camiño de Santiago. Around 20 years ago, after its most recent remodeling, it was made into a Bed and Breakfast and Country Club (the title is Country Club in English, although it would seem that they don't fully understand the concept and chose it to sound preppy).
As we pulled in, after being awed by the grandiose, ivy-covered manor house, our attention was drawn to the fact that they only had a Spanish flag out front, whereas the norm would be both Spanish and Galician flags. Weird. Inside, there wasn't a soul. We rang an old bell like aristocrats sending for servants. It felt wrong, though, disturbing the peace. Once the hotel receptionist got us checked in and gave us our enormous key, she accompanied us up the grand staircase to our room. Wow! I felt like Mary Crawford of Downton Abbey retiring to her chambers to write some correspondence. The door didn't open directly to the room, but a sort of antechamber which in turn led to the ornately decorated bathroom as well as the bedroom. The walls were covered with a deep green, padded wallpaper, increasing the English manor vibes. Aside from the fluffy king-size bed, there was also a hardwood desk, a fireplace (unusable), and a leather couch (shall we call it a settee or davenport in this context?). The bathroom seemed like another set design: red plaid wallpapering and towels embroidered B for Brandeso.
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| Stately décor in our room |
After settling in, we opted to explore the grounds. The pazo has several common areas aside from the dining room. On the upper floor a windowed hallway with tons of seats. And a lion skin on the wall! Downstairs is the library, scattered with family pictures, books, and a crocodile skin on the wall! In the adjoining sitting room, at one end a small fire slowly burned in the fireplace. Throughout the room were books, tables, couches, and zebra skins on the ground! Also, encased in the corners: stuffed wood grouse. The amount of dead animals in that place was unsettling to say the least. I guess it goes hand-in-hand with old manors and lords. But at this point, those couldn't be legal. On the walls of another building, skull after skull of some horned African species, all with the name of country and date of hunting. It gave me the heebie-jeebies.
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| Poor crocodile! |
The hunting theme continued in the dining room with large paintings of game, among other foods. Again, at one end there was a fireplace, this time with a fire roaring. Seeing as in winter we always dine fireside at home, on this occasion we let the city-folk cozy up to it. Our dinner included in the Pazo's Outono Gastronómico was elaborate and very seasonal. There were two options, so we ordered one of each. The main course was duck or cod with mashed potatoes. A simple dessert finished off the meal: a piece of Santiago (almond) cake and a scoop of ice cream or slices of local Arzúa-Ulloa cheese with quince jelly.
After our meal, we retired to our quarters for the modern comforts of channel surfing and dozing off in a comfy bed like the lord and lady of the house.
