Eguberri on!

This year's Christmas festivities were very Basque. On Christmas Eve (nochebuena) almost every barrio had their own celebration. In our hood that included a primary school parading and singing Basque Christmas carols, dressed of course in typical Basque attire. Zer polita! Seriously they were all so adorable. I even saw a baby dressed up with a baby-sized txapela (beret) to boot. A group of kids sang in a carnecería, which seemed like the cover of a Christmas card...or perhaps a scene from a Belén. Apparently they go caroling house to house for money, but with the economy the way it is, this tradition is becoming less frequent.

View from the house of children dancing in the street

After lunchtime, Olentzero and Mari Domingi met and posed with the children of Donostia. Think Santa and Mrs. Claus, except Basque. At nightfall various children's dance groups paraded along with goats and Olentzero and Mari Domingi.  The dances took me back to when I took a dance class here in 2012. I had forgotten most of them!

Christmas Eve dinner was early by Spanish standards: we started nibbling before 8! It was a pretty solemn Christmas, with no gifts exchanged.  There was, however, an abundance of shouting.  Seriously, for 4 people (not including myself because I didn't say much) there was a lot of noise. Discussing politics, love interests, and memories all required yelling. That's Spain though. As is going out after Christmas Eve dinner...

Basque scene from a Belén in a plaza

Txotx!!*

There are about to be a bunch of posts in a row because it's the holiday season, and I've been doing stuff worth writing about.

This year thanks to my anaia adoptivo (host brother), I feel that I got the authentic Santo Tomas experience. The festival is celebrated in Donostia and other Basque towns the December 21st. Its roots are the baserritarrak (Basque farmers) coming to town on this day to sell animals and goods. Now it has morphed into a day of sidra and txistorra for all citizens wanting to pay homage to those traditional Basques.

First of all, the weather was wonderful, nothing like the late December you might imagine. We went to the center around noon to check out the herri kirolak (country sports) which included a group of men dragging a giant boulder. So Basque. Unfortunately we didn't see any aizkolari, which is my favorite herri kirola where they chop wood (see this entry from 2012).Then we began the fundamental Santo Tomas activity: consuming txistorra sandwiches and a bottle of sidra. Traditionally on this day txistorra, a sausage I prefer to chorizo, is eaten on a corn tortilla called talo. However, there were much more txistorra stands than talo stands, probably since making talo is more time-consuming and requires some skill. Therefore the lines were immense and we opted for eating our txistorra on regular bread.

Then we headed  to a less central plaza to hang out with the cuadrilla of my bro.  Most of them were dressed in the typical outfits of the Basque Celebration: a loose black overshirt, a blue and white plaid handkerchief around the neck, and a black beret. (Cuadrillas are an interesting  cultural difference I often forget about until I'm on the outside. Groups of friends stay together from very young until old age.) Anyways, we spent probably 5 hours drinking sidra in the sunny part of the plaza. Nearby they were playing club music in euskera, which actually exists. Also someone was renting out little cabezudos, so every once in a while you'd see a kid running around with an old man's head. Hilarious. There was even a Galicia stand selling octopus and Galician wines. Represent!

Get behind me, Satan hahaha

After so long, part of the group broke off to play pelota vasca and we moved to the Parte Vieja which was packed. There was barely room on the streets for people to push in one direction--bars overflowed and people partied in the streets. Then my bro had to go to work, what a pity!

I would've stayed on with his amigos who were very nice to me, the quiet foreigner. But when I went back to look for them, it was like searching for someone in a where's waldo convention due to everyone wearing the Basque outfit. Madre mía!  Nevertheless, since Santo Tomas is a day festival, I didn't feel so bad returning home before Spanish dinnertime.  Besides, I had sleep debt from the night before and the night on the train.

Lastly, thumbs up to San Sebastian for promoting reusable cups. I'd say the streets were much cleaner because of it. Also I believe they were giving 1 euro for every empty bottle of sidra collected. I like the way they think.

* txotx is what Basques say when they realize cups are empty and they're about to pour more. Needless to say, with such a big group it was yelled often

Another International Thanksgiving

Once again Lauren and I hosted a Thanksgiving dinner, except this year it was even more international. We had representatives from Spain, England, Brazil, Italy, and Angola.

THANKS TO:
Lauren for baking pumpkin pie, corn bread, and a type of apple strudel. Yum! This made the meal a legitimate Thanksgiving. And she majorly helped with the clean-up, knowing how I detest doing dishes.

Diego for seasoning one set of chicken thighs.  A few minutes before putting the chickens in, I asked Diego, "So...what do we put on it?" He found a recipe and whipped up some dressing. And then at 9:20 when the gas tank went out before we had boiled the potatoes, he made 2 trips to the gas station to get more gas. Diego saves the day!

Alex for "teasing" the chicken. I always confuse the words vacilar (to tease) with vaciar (to empty). As you can imagine, I asked him to taunt the chicken. Once I corrected myself, he made fun of me for being "preppy" and then he realized the chicken came empty. Lucky break. I put the mushy stuffing in the bird myself --so much for being preppy!

The rest of our friends who came with desserts, wine, and good spirits. We ate by 10:30, and since dinner here is usually a smaller meal, everyone was thoroughly stuffed. Not to mention desserts (my new favorite is the Brazilian brigadeiros) Success! I was proud of myself for preparing the mashed potatoes, stuffing, and corn myself. Ok, frozen corn is not that difficult. But I'm starting to cook for people. Lauren and I are getting pretty good at hosting Thanksgiving...maybe next year we'll charge to get in. ;)

The Spain of Yore

Sometimes, despite the fact that everyone around me is speaking Spanish or Galician and has a certain European flair, I forget where I am. Probably because at this rate, Spanish life is the norm for me. But the other day as I was watching the Spain-Germany friendly (we lost...I don't wanna talk about it) at a bar, I got distracted observing the waiter delicately slice jamón off the cured pig leg. A few years ago I probably would've been disgusted. But now hanging pig legs are a common sight, although I don't always get to see them being sliced in action. Good ol' life in España.

And since Lugo is by now just so "homey," I signed up for a craft course. Not only do I miss crafting at home, but it was a chance to practice my Spanish outside school/my apartment without it being an actual "Spanish class." It turned out to be an excellent decision firstly, because I love upcycling (the topic) and we made 3 projects which I can remake again and again. My favorite to make was the helix vase made out of rolled up magazines, because the weaving process was addictive. I also really liked the finish product of a candy dish made of newspapers. You would never know that it was made of just glue and newspapers!

Secondly the class was a success because of the women there. There were just two other "students" plus the teacher. All middle-aged women who were very nice to me. One insisted that I didn't have an accent, and they referred to me as "la chica," not as "the foreigner." At the end of the 4 day course, we arranged to go out for wine. Since I hadn't really explored the neighborhood the class was in, they wanted to show me the best place for tapas. At first the evening was uncomfortably quiet, but once we found a good topic, I was surprised by their stories of growing up in a Galician pueblo.

Although these women are as old as my parents, their stories seemed even more antiquated than those of my grandpa! The 1960s in rural Spain was similar to the 1920s in urban America. They said most of their food was homemade or homegrown, and for things such as sugar and flour, they basically traded what extra products they had such as eggs or crops. One woman remembered the day that electricity was installed in their house--it was such a novelty! Before that they used gas for lights, and town would be completely dark after a certain hour. So they walked home for miles with only the stars to light their way, crossing through woods and bridges in the dark. On the one hand that sounds idyllic, but on the other hand scary! Obviously they didn't even have a radio for the longest time, not to mention a television. And Lugo/Galicia was even more poorly connected back then. Barely anyone had a car, so they would walk an hour just to catch a bus to a big city. Or to get to Madrid...12 hours. But let's be realistic, now on a bus it takes you 9--not too much improvement there. Their tales also included stories of poverty, but they said they didn't notice because everyone was on the same level. Nobody had electricity, it's not like it was reserved for the rich people in the village. One woman recalled saving up to buy 4 walnuts and figs--one for each member of her family. And that they each had one was such a treat. She also remembered how she and her brother cried when the pig they were going to kill within 3 days died on its own, meaning they wouldn't be able to eat meat for months, because that pig was their one chance. Another said how all winter long they would have the chestnuts they had collected with milk for dinner every night. Hard to believe that all this happened in the second half of the 1900s, in a country we consider "developed." Evidently life during Franco's dictatorship wasn't as swell as he wanted people to believe.

Feasting Season

My director wasn't lying when he said the pulpada kicks off feasting season around here. Since then I've been dining with groups more often than usual, which of course is no problem. To paraphrase Bruce Springsteen, "Don't make no difference what nobody says/ Ain't nobody like to [eat] alone."

For starters, the top 10 tapas from Lugo's September competition were available again last weekend. So in addition to the two I tried during the contest, last Thursday we had a fun-looking one served in a halved Estrella Galicia (beer) bottle, and a little hamburger. Also during the week my roommates' group of friends came over for dinner. But apparently it doesn't even count as our "Cena de bienvenda." Typical Spanish: we started at 11 and ended at 1 AM...on a school night!

Then last weekend was a birthday dinner for a friend. I was stuffed before the main plate even came out. I whispered to my friend, "Are they still bringing the meat out? I'm full, can't I just cancel it?" Too late. I didn't realize there were going to be so many appetizers--bread, tortilla, fish on shells-- on top of the giant steak with fries. Oops. I had to refuse dessert, sadly. Next time I'll be sure to fast a few hours beforehand. It's all the fault of the free pintxo and tapa we got with our pre-dinner drinks!

Ok, some had labels

Last week was also Magosto at school, which means chourizada (chorizo meal) for the profes. Olé! Chorizo is starting to grow on me. [Help! Get it off!] For a moment the profes almost had a meltdown because they forgot to order bread. But how will the Galicians eat without bread?! It arrived in time for dessert, basically. Pan y vino. Because the red wine got finished fast, they pulled out mysterious and unlabeled alcohol to ease the digestion. Then we went out for the kids' festivities. There were plenty of roasted chestnuts (no me gustan) and some cakes baked by students. There were traditional games and dancing. One of my students pulled me out to dance. I excused my poor skills by saying "I'm not Spanish! I can't dance!"

Let us not forget, American Thanksgiving is right around the corner, which will be followed by another birthday dinner and the "inauguration" of our piso. Ya era hora!

Working Hard or Hardly Working

The past two days at school have made me conclude the latter. Too many fun experiences to be had outside of the classroom (but around school, I mean). I will add that all the activities took place during a free period, it's not like I shirk my duties. ;)

The other day for example, there was an assembly with 3 players from Lugo's basketball team, Breogan. The school director introduced me to them to chat for a bit, since they all speak English. [See what happens when you speak English, kids? You get to talk to basketball players!] One was from the USA, another from the Netherlands, and one from Lithuania. Two of them spoke Spanish so they could answer the kids' questions, but I was disappointed the students didn't even attempt to ask in English for the player who didn't understand Spanish. C'mon, guys! En fin, I'm sure they enjoyed the assembly more than just as an excuse to miss class.

Tuesday, in addition to Magosto celebrations (here), I accompanied one class to the local distillery. A class of 14-year-olds in a distillery--is that even legal? This was their second trip there, since the first time the machines weren't running. The place is within walking distance, and is the only "industry" in the town. While the students were watching the machines, one of the workers tried to explain part of the process to me. I didn't catch much, but did see the big pit where they have the scraps of grape skins from red wine that I think they use to make other alcohols. I didn't really get that, since it was liquor distillery, not winery. Anyways, at the end of our short tour, I was offered a sample. Woohoo! The girls freaked out and wanted to try it too, but they're too young so "ha-ha". To conclude, that was certainly an unexpected fieldtrip for high schoolers.

Bicultural Autumn: Pulpada and Halloween

In Lugo, the month of October is associated with the festival of San Froilán and feasting on pulpo, so once again this year I joined the teachers for a pulpada (octopus dinner). This year it wasn't in a caseta, but a regular restaurant which also had other groups celebrating that night. The "entrées" before the pulpo were delicious, perhaps even more so because I've been eating a lot of rice-and-tuna and plain pasta lately. There was tortilla de patata, croquetas, stuffed mushrooms (I don't even like mushrooms, but it tasted like a veggie pizza), and squid. Dinner was accompanied by red wine, and when I asked for some water after starting the pulpo, the teachers flat out denied me! They claimed that the pulpo would feed on it and then grow inside of me. Or more reasonably, they insisted combining water and pulpo caused indigestion. For dessert I could barely finish the homemade and very orange carrot cake, and a glass of sweet Crema de Orujo to help the digestion.

After the dinner, which ended around 1 AM, the majority decided to "go have a coffee". We headed towards the center, because that was the closest place with places open. Then the director asked me where we should go! I was tickled when they actually followed my advice and we went to a place I frequent. It was also a good decision because there's an upstairs where you can sit in a big group and everyone can talk to each other, unlike at the long tables of the pulpo dinner. I had a swell time, probably because I know the teachers better this year. It was fun to joke around with them and just listen to their banter with old friends.

As for the American holiday, in my classes we talked about haunted mental institutions for the oldest students and basic Halloween traditions and vocabulary for the youngest. I'm always pleased when they laugh at me acting out vocabulary, because hopefully the definition will then stick with them as they imagine my maniacal face saying "mentally unstable = crazy" haha. Some of the older students also celebrated by making a haunted classroom. I went in arm-in-arm with the English teacher who is also a good friend. It was pitch black, and pretty good, but I couldn't stop laughing because she kept screaming every time a kid grabbed at her. I was reminded of this clip from Ellen "Stop it! Just STOP IT!" I was impressed at their effort, because they don't seem to dedicate themselves to most things. One of the younger students came out completely acojonado (freaked out) and later threw up in class! Poor kid!

At my apartment we had a small Halloween party and amused ourselves in typical Halloween ways-- a mummy-making race and bobbing for apples. When we went out afterwards, not too many people were dressed up in the streets. Some had dressed up the night before Halloween. In Spain, those who do celebrate with costumes go for scary. The general/funny costumes are reserved for Carnival.

24 fantastic hours (in Vigo)

Life is a dream, and in my dream I was sitting on the beach at the end of October, eating a giant burger in good company, still trying to process the fact that I had finally seen my favorite Spanish band in concert. 

This pic doesn't do it justice

So in my dreamy life, we went to Vigo, a coastal city about 2 hours away, for the concert on Saturday. En route we drove through the scenic Ribeira Sacra, which has vineyards lining the hillsides of the Río Miño. Last time we were there, it was December so it was all dead. Now that it's autumn, the leaves were lovely shades of green, orange, and red.

It says "AMA" --love!

The concert was at 10 PM. No openers, just pure Extremoduro. The place was packed, but we dared to move forward. Well, not the first few rows, but more than halfway up. As I told my friend, "So much smoke. So many people. So much excitement. I forget how to breathe." The concert finally started at 10:30, because fans were still coming in. They played straight til midnight, then had a 20 minute break, to return until 2 AM. That's THREE HOURS of concert! Holy Toledo!!! They played some of my favorites, but even with 3 hours they couldn't fit in some other classics. The ones I didn't know were likely from their newest album which I haven't listened to. Anyways, it was a magnificent experience, hearing the band, and singing along with +/-2000 other people. Afterwards, we ended up waiting 1.5 hours for the free buses back to the city. But it was worth the wait, because just before our bus came, a van with tinted windows stopped in front of about 30 fans. One guy went up to it and peeked in, and it was Extremoduro inside!! They waved/hit the window. La vida es sueño, ya te lo dije.

Sunday we woke up late and took burgers to the beach. Diego has been talking about this burger place since last year, and the result was good, huge, and cheap just as promised. It was a beautiful day, probably around 80* in the sun. The water was too cold to swim, but nice for dipping your toes in. The lack of a beach is really Lugo's main drawback. After a few hours on the beach it was time to head back home. But we left feeling that we sure did 24 hours the right way.

Islas Cíes in the background--a trip for another weekend

Taking advantage of global warming

The weather has been summery lately, thereby filling the terrazas and plazas until the sun goes down. Sunday Lauren and I took advantage of the sunshine on a 12 km hike going from a town in Asturias to another in Galicia. The "railroad route" took us through several tunnels. Unlit tunnels, might I add. We came unprepared, so Lauren downloaded a flashlight app to calm our fears. Thank you, modern technology! Nonetheless we did run hand-in-hand through the first tunnel, and sang songs/talked loudly through the rest. But the tunnels made it an experience! The rest was mostly flat walking with some wooded hills for a backdrop. Aside from being in nature, I enjoy hiking because of the camaraderie--hikers almost always greet other hikers. You know you've reached the town when passersby just look at you rather than saying "Hola!" In our destination town A Pontenova, we checked out huge furnaces used back in the mining days.

In school, most of my students are on strike again. So the few that actually come are getting some fun, personal English practice. For example in one class we played a board game and read horoscopes. In gym class there were only 2 girls, so when the teacher left for a minute, I suggested we try out the stilts. When the teacher came back and saw us having a gay old time, she decided to bring out the 18-inch stilts that you actually tape to your feet/calves. Only one student dared to do it, so I tried, too. I was pretty good at at,  and even managed to walk a short distance without holding on to someone. A new hidden talent?!

Then there is the youngest group that is obsessed with proving that I speak Spanish. A couple of students will stay back to observe me with teachers of other subjects, who I obviously speak in Spanish with. Then in class they yell (in Galician) "She speaks Spanish! She spoke Spanish yesterday, and with a good accent!" And I say "No, I only speak English." It took them a few minutes, but they finally made the connection that yes, I am replying to what they've said in Galician, so clearly I understand them. Also they never made the connection that when I explain a word in English, and then they confirm it in Spanish, I clearly know some Spanish translations. Haha, oh youth!

San Froilán: Se acabó

The weeklong Lugo festival is now over, so things are about too seem very quiet around here. Sunday morning I arrived home later than my roommate--approximately 8:30 AM. One goal accomplished for the year. There were some good concerts this year, but I did miss Os Heredeiros, La Pegatina, and Love of Lesbian from last year. We did get to see a pretty good rock concert, but it wasn't free: Costas, Rosendo, and Los Suaves, before San Froilán technically began. This year Buena Vista Social Club performed as one of the 'big names.' In other concert news, I finally convinced someone to go to EXTREMODURO with me in two weeks. Toma!

Aside from the never-ending (until last night) festivities, school has gotten off to a great start. It's nice knowing most of the students already. In one class, they've clapped for me both times I've had class with them! And the new students seem fun. For example the new class of 1* ESO seems younger than the group last year, and they are so precious! They all say hello to me, and debate about the pronunciation of my name with "rr" which sounds different in English than it does in Spanish. Last week some even hugged me! Or the new kids in 1*BAC (sophomore/junior age) make the class huge but a good time. Here's hoping the first two weeks are a sign of things to come.

Oh and here's a random picture of us with the mayor. He stopped us as we were checking out some San Froilán food/craft tents and told us to stop by if we ever have morriña (homesickness). Kind of a big deal? But you know how politicians are. He was later ousted for corruption, so...

Donostia de nuevo

This past week I decided to take a little trip to Donostia before work started,  bringing my best friend along. Since she hasn't been there in over a decade, I took her to all of the fundamental tourist sites. Not that I minded. We did a lot of walking-- especially compared to my very stationary American life two weeks ago. We walked the length of La Concha beach a few times; saw los Peines del Viento (windcombs sculpture); took the funicular up Mt Igeldo for a picturesque view; trekked to the fort on Mt Urgull; did a 7km hike from Mt Ulia to the neighboring port town of Pasaia; and spent some time sunbathing on the beach (which seems surreal since now in Lugo a jacket and pants are necessary). Not bad for only three days! We also saw a film at the San Sebastián Film Festival, and a concert by one of my anaia's bands.

Speaking of anaia (brother), we stayed with my host family aka the best family in Donostia! My madre made us lentils even though she hates them because they're my favorite. We really enjoyed getting home-cooked meals rather than eating out all the time, as usually happens when travelling. Plus it was nice to catch up with the family, who I haven't seen since Christmas. They already invited me for this Christmas, so happily there will be less time between visits.

Ha vuelto la dueña

Back in Lugo and it feels glorious! I had a sickness-free, 24-hour journey to get here, and for that I am grateful. The 3 best friends that anyone could have were at the bus station to welcome me. The first night back was surreal. Of course I was out of it from barely sleeping, but on top of that being with darling people I hadn't seen in months made me feel like I was dreaming! I am currently staying in my friend's house, and excitingly WE'VE ALREADY FOUND A PISO! Yujuuuu! More on that another time.

Last night was our first night out again in this little city we know so well. It started with a punk rock concert--Spanish covers of which I knew a few. Sweet! I have a feeling (and the expectation) that this year will be full of live music. Well, at least through October! Afterwards we went to some of our "old haunts," and in surprising yet typical Spanish fashion, arrived home around 6:30 AM. Bien se vive!

In other news, kids have been singing and clapping (estilo andaluz) outside for HOURS. It's midnight now, and it appears they've finally decided to move along.

Belg-YUM

First weekend trip sola was a success! Although travelling alone you're never really alone, and you meet more cool people than if travelling with a friend. I also realized that it was my first time on a plane since I arrived from the USA. Wow. It seemed that I travelled a lot this year, but all within Spain apparently.

I flew out of O Porto early Friday, which required me to spend the night there. Luckily one of my Gallego classmates lives there now so I was able to stay with her. After arriving in Brussels, I met a Portuguese girl and we grabbed lunch together and then parted ways-- I was headed to Brugge via train. In the train station I met two Mexican guys who were also trying to go to Brugge. Travellers stick together! It was double fun hanging out with them because it allowed me to practice my Spanish, even if I found their accents pretty hard to understand. But they said my accent is notably from Spain, hoho!

Brugge is certainly a beautiful little city. Because of this reputation, however, it is loaded with tourists. Seriously, the tourist population outnumbers the actual residents. I don't know how they stand it! The language of Brugge is Flemish (like Dutch), which I know nothing of. I wrote down some key phrases, pero igual all the hospitality workers spoke English. Sometimes it seems unfair to me that people (such as myself) have English as a native tongue when it's used as an international language. We have such an advantage over others who have to study it as a second or third language. But I digress. Friday we took in the charming buildings on foot, and tried some Belgian beers. My new chums had to leave that night for Brussels, how sad. Belgians eat dinner at an earlier time than Spaniards, so when I was hungry around 9 I opted to get fries smothered in ketchup at a little fry stand (indeed on this trip I tried all the typical Belgian foods apart from mussels). I enjoyed my fries outside to the music of the belfry. I don't think they do it every night, but there happened to be a sort of concert of bells, after which the tiny man (because he was so high off the ground) waved to his adoring audience. 

Saturday I explored Brugge a bit more with some Americans from my hostel. Not as entertaining as the Mexicans! For breakfast we had a waffle with 'the works' --chocolate syrup, strawberries, and whipped cream. It was almost too sweet! I also spent my last hours there perusing chocolate shops. So many to choose from! Unfortunately most of my purchases melted. In one place I bought 3 truffles for 5 euros! That could've gotten me 5 Milka bars! I also watched lollipops (I assume) being made. 

Back to Madrid

Labor Day weekend (first of May), a few of us went to Madrid to celebrate my best chum Lauren's birthday. For some reason (perhaps the company kept or the sites visited) I enjoyed Madrid much more this time around, compared with my trip three years ago. Mola visitar.

The first day we saw sights such as the ayuntamiento city hall and

Parque del Retiro. Unfortunately the line to rent a boat was ridiculously long, so we just soaked up the sun.

The second day we saw some more parks, the palacio, and probably other stuff. At night we went to a flamenco show. The place was really out of the way, so we assumed it would be "authentic" but in reality the audience was all obvious tourists--including a group that would not shut up during the performance. At the beginning we had to control ourselves not to laugh, because it just seemed so ridiculous. During the show there were some intense moments, the dancers were certainly expressive. Anyways, I think I'll save future flamenco for when I'm in Andalucía (autonomous community known for flamenco).

The third day we took a little trip to Alcalá de Henares.  It's a pretty and small city a short train ride from Madrid. Our friend lived there a few years ago, so she was able to show us around. We saw Cervantes' rebuilt house. Miguel Cervantes is perhaps the most well-known Spanish writer, notably author of Don Quijote.

The next afternoon was our bus back, but before that we went to El Rastro, a great big market held every Sunday. They had so many cool things, it's probably for the best that we were short on money and time. Next time I will be more prepared to shop...

2nd Visitor to Galicia

As part of my adventure-packed Semana Santa, my French friend came to Galicia for 48 hours. And according to the Clash, 48 hours needs 48 thrills! Given the short amount of time, I'd say we saw a good amount of Galicia.

Day 1 we went to the beach in Arteixo, a small city near A Coruña, because he's never seen the ocean. Then we headed further south along the Costa da Morte ("Coast of Death" thanks to many a-shipwreck taking place in the region) until Fisterra. It's the most western land in continental Europe, dubbed "the end of the world" by Romans. At night we (my English speaking amiguiños and I) showed him the "wild" Lugo nightlife. Not really wild, but he did get to try some specific Galician and Spanish drinks and tapas.

Day 2 found us travelling to the North coast, specifically the beach of As Catedrais. I've been there before, but it's magnificent rock formations were certainly worth another trip. We also stopped in the town of Viveiro (I think...) to walk around.

Day 3 was a brief tour of A Coruña, although we didn't even make it up to the Tower of Hercules due to time constraints. That's alright though; it leaves plenty to do for the next visit.

Semana Santa

Throughout Spain during Semana Santa and especially on Good Friday, religious fraternities have processions with giant floats featuring Jesus, Mary, and other holy folks. I was suprised to see about as many people lined up to see the procession as there were to see the cabalgata of the 3 Kings-- because those guys bring presents and throw candy, but Good Friday is solemn. Lugo capital isn't well-known for their processions. Maybe it's because there was only one float that was actually carried by people; the rest were rolled. Nonetheless, it was impressive to someone who's never seen such a thing. The participants can be slightly scary at first since they look like a cult-- more specifically, the KKK, except with colored robes and hoods. But if you don't think of them as such, it's nice. Some carried crosses, but most just walked in 2 files. There was also a group which looked to be traditionally-dressed women in mourning.

I'd like to add that on the Spanish schedule fasting isn't really so bad. Because they usually have lunch later in the day to hold them off until dinner which is soon before bed.

West Coast, best coast

I declare that this week I'm seeing more of Northern Spain (well, Galicia, Asturias, and Cantabria) than I've seen all year. Especially the delightful natural attractions. The day after returning from our Girls Roadtrip, I took a day trip with my friend to Galicia's west coast.

First stop: The ruins of Catoira. Centuries ago, Vikings entered the area via a river leading to the ocean, and being Vikings, pillaged and desecrated the place. Now the town has a famous Viking festival each summer where citizens dress up as Vikings and come in on big boats to burn down the makeshift village (already been added to my festivals to attend list, fret not). When we went there were two Viking ships in the port that you could board in addition to three ruined buildings. Nifty.

Next stop: As piscinas do Río Pedra. Another natural beauty, with yellow flower- and tree-lined hills on either side of the river. The giant rocks create miniature waterfalls which flow into swimming-worthy pools. It's understandably a big hit during the summertime. Despite the heat when we went, the water was too cold for my taste. We did traverse upstream which required walking barefoot in the water. I only fell once, and not into the water, so overall it was a good experience.

Third Stop: Castro de Baroña. Approaching it from the woods, the small, walled peninsula with remains of circular rock houses looks mythical.  I can certainly understand why the Celts chose this place for their village. It's got charming beaches on either side, is on a cliff that meets the ocean, and has a good view of the mainland where enemies would come from. Perhaps my favorite place we visited that day.

Is it Atlantis? Nay, it's Castro de Baroña!

The remains are only a few feet high because people
would take the rocks for their own walls

Next Stop: A beekeeper's workshop. This part was like visiting a honey museum, except personal and with free samples. I (more or less) learned the steps to making honey and tried about 10 varieties--to get different 'flavors' he leaves the bees by different types of flowers. My favorite kind was chocolate honey, and he even gave me a jar of it. Stellar! Not really a honey fan, but can't resist chocolate goodness.

Final Stop: As dunas de Corrubedo. I was actually not too impressed by this park. Although now it is better guarded and there are signs that warn a 60-600 euro fine for walking onto the dunes, before people apparently used to drive their cars right up into the dunes and thus would have to push them back out. The dunes used to be bigger and more impressive, but it seems that because of their misuse they've shrunk. So by now it just looks like a sandy hill leading towards a beach.

Picos de Europa: Or the 7 Natural Wonders of Northern Spain

Oh the wonders I have seen! This weekend on our Girl's Trip to Picos de Europa in Asturias and Cantabria, I honestly believe I've seen what should be considered the Seven Natural Wonders of Spain...or something like it. Incredible views both in the mountains and on the beach-- and on beaches surrounded by mountains. At times I felt like I was on another planet with the interesting rock formations. On the drive home we stopped at about four beaches, which might have been excessive but every time we got out to explore, I was left more impressed and intrigued than by the last. Obviously we're not talking about just sandy beaches, but ones with sick rock formations and little grottos. Since between the four of us we probably took 500 pictures, instead of writing I'm just going to include a plethora of photos. So if your computer is slow, you might just wanna skip this post. :) However I will say that after passing through many a-town, we would all say "If I had a country house it would be here" I've decided on the ideal: Cangas de Onís for during the week, and then San Sebastián or another coastal city for the weekends.